Fiber Stream Resources

[OR335d]

I've collected quite a bit of information about the parts and systems in a Fiber Stream from tearing it down to a bare shell. I'm going to start posting some information that might help others as they work to improve theirs. First item, wiring diagram. This is broken up between towing wiring, 110V, and 12V. Please let me know if you have any questions. By all means, remove the stock converter ASAP as it is known to severely shorten your battery life. If not, disconnect the battery when not in use.

Please let me know if there are any other systems, parts or appliances you are wondering about and I'll get that information up sooner than later.

[OR335d]

One of the rare items on a Fiber Stream is the axle and brake combination. They were manufactured by a GM subsidiary in CA, but a GM settled a strike by closing down the factory in the 1980's. An oddity is that the outer bearings are a different size than the inner bearings. The parts will not swap with any other axle. You can replace with a new axle, or look for parts from a dead Fiber Stream. Other magnets could be retrofitted, and break linings can be re-manufactured. I've attached a diagram from a tent trailer that used them. They were also on some Airstream Argosy trailers. I have done extensive searching, and there are no original parts available. The bearings are common sizes and can be ordered from your local bearing supplier. Please post if you have actual product information for these.

[kiyiyi]

I'm wondering if you know a source for side window screens?

Thanks,
Jackie

[Sam Roberts]

Originally Posted by OR335d

I've collected quite a bit of information about the parts and systems in a Fiber Stream from tearing it down to a bare shell. I'm going to start posting some information that might help others as they work to improve theirs. First item, wiring diagram. This is broken up between towing wiring, 110V, and 12V. Please let me know if you have any questions. By all means, remove the stock converter ASAP as it is known to severely shorten your battery life. If not, disconnect the battery when not in use.

Please let me know if there are any other systems, parts or appliances you are wondering about and I'll get that information up sooner than later.

Hello again. I hope I am replying correctly. I feel I will probably have to do a frame reinforcement. The frame appears to sag down behind the axles and the little outrigger supports look a little dog eared all around the perimeter. Would you mind giving a little run down on the specifics of what you did to yours?

Thanks,
Sam Roberts

[trainman]

Being a retired body shop mgr. for over 30 years it still remains why anyone would tackle a restoration that can not fully do the job themselves and with the knowledge needed to do it. I don't care what it is, auto, boat, trailer, home, etc., it's expensive with even you doing all the labor and in most cases it's done at a $ loss and not profitable, ok, I'll buy the restoration thing for a hobby. I restored several things when I managed the body shop, but I also had a lot of free help, otherwise I wouldn't have even attempted any of them. I almost restored a Airstream Argosy at one time, then I came to my senses and passed on the idea.

trainman

[OR335d]

Originally Posted by Sam Roberts

Hello again. I hope I am replying correctly. I feel I will probably have to do a frame reinforcement. The frame appears to sag down behind the axles and the little outrigger supports look a little dog eared all around the perimeter. Would you mind giving a little run down on the specifics of what you did to yours?

Thanks,
Sam Roberts

Sam,

The frame is coming up soon on my list of things to do. When these trailers are new the shell and interior partition walls add significant strength to the frame. In my estimation the frame is not strong enough on its own. A common failure happens when moisture leaks in the door area, softens the plywood floor, and allows the floor to sag at the rear wall of the fridge. There is no frame where this cabinet passes the load to the floor. When the floor sags at this point, the entire load of the trailer must be carried by the frame rather than be distributed by the shell.

Others have added steel to the frame. The Drivin and Vibin Youtube channel has a little information on what they did. I anticipate adding 1" tube to the bottom of my frame in the coming winter season. It would be great to see what others have done as well. I might need to flip the axles to provide enough room.

[Sam Roberts]

The whole idea of restoring a fiber stream is insane. I’ve accepted that. When viewed as a whole, the task is daunting. I have decided to put blinders on and tackle the project in little bites. As of now, I have flipped the axles, added 13 “ radials,installed A/C, Fixed most of the leaks in the shell, added metal roof vents, removed most of the rotten flooring and replaced with 1/2” outdoor sign board which will be coated with epoxy resin. That heavy fridge pounded right through the floor so it had to go. Looking for replacement. Next on the list is removal of sink, stove,,cabinet and floor panel beneath it all. Once I get an empty shell, I ‘ll decide If I need to do the frame work myself or tow to my local welding shop. So far, this has been a fun project.. Sam

[MsRat3]

Thanks for the info! We are restoring an old FiberStream, as well. I'll post photos asap.

[Sam Roberts]

Originally Posted by MsRat3

Thanks for the info! We are restoring an old FiberStream, as well. I'll post photos asap.

Would love to see your progress!

[dclayton]

my flooring in some places is a little mushy, gonna add some 1 inch steel soon, flipped my axles, made a world of difference, I can boondock better now. thanks! Dave

[Ghos]

Any information on where to find the windows weather strips?

[OR335d]

Haven't found the weather strip for the windows. I'd really like to, as when we rebuilt our windows we reused the old, and it's shorter now.

[Ghos]

No lock, but we will let you know what we ended doing. Love the trailer, but it has been a pain...

[thrifty bill]

Originally Posted by trainman

Being a retired body shop mgr. for over 30 years it still remains why anyone would tackle a restoration that can not fully do the job themselves and with the knowledge needed to do it. I don't care what it is, auto, boat, trailer, home, etc., it's expensive with even you doing all the labor and in most cases it's done at a $ loss and not profitable, ok, I'll buy the restoration thing for a hobby.

trainman

Agree mostly. I have at least 300 hours into my Trillium rebuild, probably more. Let’s say I paid someone to do this work, and I will assume they would be more efficient than me. At local rates (at least $75 an hour) and let’s say 200 hours, that’s $15,000! Clearly a 1977 Trillium is not worth that expense. As far as my hours into the project, I consider it entertainment. I’m not looking for a return on my hours. And I am not done!

I own two vintage homes right now. On one, the inspector told me “do not buy this house!” And on the other, the inspector told me the house was too far gone, it would have to be torn down. Well I’m stubborn and do 99% of the work myself, so I rebuilt both of them. Most of the expense was my labor. Had I paid someone to do the work the expense on either would have been double or triple what the finished homes are worth,

[Sam Roberts]

Originally Posted by OR335d

Sam,

The frame is coming up soon on my list of things to do. When these trailers are new the shell and interior partition walls add significant strength to the frame. In my estimation the frame is not strong enough on its own. A common failure happens when moisture leaks in the door area, softens the plywood floor, and allows the floor to sag at the rear wall of the fridge. There is no frame where this cabinet passes the load to the floor. When the floor sags at this point, the entire load of the trailer must be carried by the frame rather than be distributed by the shell.

Others have added steel to the frame. The Drivin and Vibin Youtube channel has a little information on what they did. I anticipate adding 1" tube to the bottom of my frame in the coming winter season. It would be great to see what others have done as well. I might need to flip the axles to provide enough room.

I had an idea on reinforcing my frame that I wanted to run by you. Since I am currently in the process of replacing my floor, I have full access to my frame. Do you think I might be able to run a piece of 1"x1" tubing under my existing 1"x2" frame (front to back only)? Instead of welding it on, I would like to "strap" the two pieces together with some some flat mending plate metal or modified U-Bolts. This would allow for some amount of flexibility as opposed to welding(which according to another reader, comes with its own set of problems).

[canyon Rafter]

Originally Posted by OR335d

I've collected quite a bit of information about the parts and systems in a Fiber Stream from tearing it down to a bare shell. I'm going to start posting some information that might help others as they work to improve theirs. First item, wiring diagram. This is broken up between towing wiring, 110V, and 12V. Please let me know if you have any questions. By all means, remove the stock converter ASAP as it is known to severely shorten your battery life. If not, disconnect the battery when not in use.

Please let me know if there are any other systems, parts or appliances you are wondering about and I'll get that information up sooner than later.

I am looking for the plastic u shaped trim that caps the bathroom door and dnt divider wall pass through window. I have searched all the places I can think of and have had no luck. I thought I would ask you if you are using that cap and if you found any new. The old stuff just wont do. Thanks,
Frank

[Sam Roberts]

Hi Frank.
I just gutted my Fiber Stream and threw out most of the interior. I just assumed I could easily find the mouldings when I went back in. I haven't looked real hard, but I found this website that might have something that would work. I will see what is left of mine and will message you back. Sam 210-415-1173
https://www.outwater.com/color-plast...nnel-moulding/

[canyon Rafter]

Thanks Sam,
I have been looking for a source online and in the camper dealers here in Vegas for sometime now. This is the kind of source I have been looking for. I haven't looked real hard at this store but it looks like so far they might have just what I need! I totally gutted my Fiber Stream also and am on the last fazes of putting the camper on the road. I replaced a lot of the original wiring for the towing lights, new seven way plug and wiring I got from etrailer that has a j box that is well worth the bucks! New breakaway brake system also from the same store that is far advanced from the original and worth the time and effort. It has been a work of great satisfaction to see the Fiber Stream come back to life! I also added Weight Distribution System w/ Sway Control to make towing in the wind a little less stressful. When all is complete I will put up pictures on the Fiberglass RV website. It has taken me a while to get this project done but with the time off during this covid thing I have got a lot done this summer! Thanks for the online store!
Frank

[FiberStream78]

Does anyone have any information on the size of the wheel bearing seal for a 78 Fiber Stream? Planning to repack it and I'll be doing it two hours out of town so hoping to get the part before starting the job. Thanks in advance.

[OR335d]

I believe our trailers share axles and bearings with the Apache tent trailers from the same erra. Here's a link to the manufacturers information and diagrams:

Apache Trailer - Fayette Axles

Hope this works for you.