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Old 09-05-2020, 11:13 PM   #81
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Wish I knew of that product earlier; I installed only smokeless harnesses in this build. Maybe I'll get to use it on British caravan renovation. [emoji57][emoji1787]
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Old 09-05-2020, 11:19 PM   #82
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These lights will come in handy when hitching up in the dark. Click image for larger version

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Old 09-08-2020, 09:02 AM   #83
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actually, I will build a relay to stop the ability to charge the LiFePO4 batteries if the temperature is below 35F. This would prevent damage to the batteries.
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Old 09-08-2020, 09:24 AM   #84
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I'll have to check, but the onboard BMS might already do that.
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actually, I will build a relay to stop the ability to charge the LiFePO4 batteries if the temperature is below 35F. This would prevent damage to the batteries.
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Old 09-08-2020, 10:41 AM   #85
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I am not sure about the valence batteries. I do know the Battleborn BMS has a low temperature charge cutoff.
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Old 09-08-2020, 11:10 AM   #86
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However, even if the Valence doesn't have low temp shut off, the Ctek d250se (on-board solar) and Epever (remote solar) do.

I will have 4 temp sensors attached to these batteries in addition to the battery's own BMS.
1. D250se temp sensor;
2. Epever temp sensor;
3. Heater relay temp sensor;
4. Fan relay temp sensor.

Therefore, I think I'm covered in that respect.

That, however, was a great point to consider and the reason I started this script for such input. I can't think of everything. Thank you!
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actually, I will build a relay to stop the ability to charge the LiFePO4 batteries if the temperature is below 35F. This would prevent damage to the batteries.
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Old 09-09-2020, 08:27 AM   #87
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Sizing out my conduit to carry:
1. 2ga Inverter cable,
2. 2ga Negative cable,
3. 8ga 30 amp power cable,
4. 8ga Solar cables,
5. 14ga Party lights wire,
6. 10ga Brakeaway wire,
7-8. 2x Ethernet wires, and
9. Shunt meter cable.

This will be a tight fit. Getting out the wire pulling gel. Click image for larger version

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Old 09-10-2020, 05:30 PM   #88
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Lithium battery trailer install issue.

I'm installing a Lithium battery in my trailer and worked out all the issues except the vehicle charging. Because of the low battery resistance it can really draw on your tow vehicle alternator and wiring. The solution is to use a dc to dc charger to match the two types of batteries and charge profiles. To get the current to an acceptable level you would need a 20 amp charger. The charts require at least a#4 charge wire and I guess a dedicated Anderson connector. Since I don't want a dedicated tow vehicle and don't want to modify two vehicles my solution is just pull my 30 amp aux power fuse when towing the trailer with lithium batteries. That just seems the simple thing to do to solve this problem. Wiring Vans and RV with the shorter wire runs and dedicated vehicle don't present as big an issue as with a trailer. Any comments?
Eddie
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Old 09-10-2020, 05:59 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddie Longest View Post
I'm installing a Lithium battery in my trailer and worked out all the issues except the vehicle charging. Because of the low battery resistance it can really draw on your tow vehicle alternator and wiring. The solution is to use a dc to dc charger to match the two types of batteries and charge profiles. To get the current to an acceptable level you would need a 20 amp charger. The charts require at least a#4 charge wire and I guess a dedicated Anderson connector. Since I don't want a dedicated tow vehicle and don't want to modify two vehicles my solution is just pull my 30 amp aux power fuse when towing the trailer with lithium batteries. That just seems the simple thing to do to solve this problem. Wiring Vans and RV with the shorter wire runs and dedicated vehicle don't present as big an issue as with a trailer. Any comments?
Eddie
I think you are making it harder than it is. Just buy a VICTRON Orion-TR DC Converter 12/12-9A (110W) Isolated. They cost less than $60. I have two of them and they can charge your LiFePO4 battery using either a dedicated wire from your tow vehicle or the 7-pin connector. Wire size doesn't really matter, you won't draw more current than it can take. Instead, you will charge your lithium battery at up to 9 amps. You don't need 20 amps, just take what you can get. We all generally drive many hours and you have time to charge up your battery usually.
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Old 09-10-2020, 06:13 PM   #90
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It depends a lot on how much you're trying to optimize. Realistically, the wire from the tow vehicle alternator through the connector and to the batteries has so much voltage drop that you're unlikely to even see 10A through it. That voltage drop is further exacerbated by lithium's voltage being slightly higher than lead-acid.

The alternator-load problem is really an issue for boats and motorhomes, where there might be a short 4/0AWG cable connecting the alternator to the batteries instead of 20' of 12AWG or 14AWG.
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Old 09-10-2020, 06:27 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Defenestrator View Post
It depends a lot on how much you're trying to optimize. Realistically, the wire from the tow vehicle alternator through the connector and to the batteries has so much voltage drop that you're unlikely to even see 10A through it. That voltage drop is further exacerbated by lithium's voltage being slightly higher than lead-acid.
What I was trying to convey is that in practice I routinely get 9 amp charging rates from a Toyota 4Runner using its stock wiring to the 7-pin connector, then a 20 foot run to the lithium battery in the trailer. That wire was a doubled 12 gauge wire. The Victron is located right next to the Li battery and the output is set to 14.2 volts.
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Old 09-10-2020, 06:34 PM   #92
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I think I'd put that under "some optimization". I went with the even simpler "rely on voltage drop" method and so far it's been adequate. I have 800W of solar, which does most of the work. At night I think I see on the order of 5A of charge. Lack of a controller does mean I tend to unplug the tow power when I stop overnight to reduce parasitic draw and not boil the tow vehicle battery, but it's probably not a big problem.

Extra wiring and a charge controller get you from probably 3-5A to 9A if you're trying to maximize alternator charge, but if you're just trying to avoid alternator damage from overload it's a non-issue for travel trailers.
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Old 09-10-2020, 07:33 PM   #93
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Thanks for the replies. Looks like the Victron will solve my problem and give me the correct charge voltage. Like others have done, with the Victron I will now have to run a dedicated brake breakaway wire. "Harder than it is." That is how it goes sometimes when working alone on a problem. That's the great thing about a forum like this to get you back on track.
Eddie
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Old 09-10-2020, 07:36 PM   #94
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My design is similar to Air Dougs. I ran a dedicated 10 awg wire and fuse from the distribution box under the hood of my taco to the 7 pin connector area. I cut the factory power wire that goes to the connector and attached it to the coil of the waterproof relay. I added a wire to frame ground to the other side of the relay coil. The relay contacts connect the added wire to the remains of cut off factory wire from the 7 pin connector. I measure around 10 volts at the victron input when the battery is charging and the TV is running. The Victron output is around 9 amps at 14.3 volts which requires around 13-14 amps at the input. There is more voltage drop in the wiring than I would like, and may look into it at some point, but after close to 30k miles it is still working fine. This is the relay I used and shrink spliced the connections

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 09-10-2020, 09:41 PM   #95
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Hi Eddie

I am using a CTek d250se lithuim DC to DC charger, which sorts out those issues for me. It accepts two charging sources (alternator and solar) doubles as an MPPT solar controller and manages the charge to the batteries. Its not inexpensive, but given what its protecting (2 lithium batteries) I believe its a sound investment.

I had to route some lines in front of it but you can see it buried in there.

I have a 10awg wire from the alternator to the 7-way. Someday I may run a 8awg instead but not this year.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddie Longest View Post
I'm installing a Lithium battery in my trailer and worked out all the issues except the vehicle charging. Because of the low battery resistance it can really draw on your tow vehicle alternator and wiring. The solution is to use a dc to dc charger to match the two types of batteries and charge profiles. To get the current to an acceptable level you would need a 20 amp charger. The charts require at least a#4 charge wire and I guess a dedicated Anderson connector. Since I don't want a dedicated tow vehicle and don't want to modify two vehicles my solution is just pull my 30 amp aux power fuse when towing the trailer with lithium batteries. That just seems the simple thing to do to solve this problem. Wiring Vans and RV with the shorter wire runs and dedicated vehicle don't present as big an issue as with a trailer. Any comments?
Eddie
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Old 09-14-2020, 07:33 AM   #96
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Hopefully finishing up the wiring today.
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Old 09-25-2020, 09:50 PM   #97
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Done.

I'll take some pictures once I get it mounted to the frame
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Old 09-02-2021, 07:07 PM   #98
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Finally got everything mounted up. Click image for larger version

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Also hooked up an electric tongue jack which is powered off the tug or off the battery box. Click image for larger version

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An accessory motorized rolling tongue jack is available and removed when not needed but a fun way to drive the camper around the driveway. It plugs into the heavy-duty 12v outlet on the side of the battery box. Click image for larger version

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Old 09-02-2021, 08:34 PM   #99
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More wiring picsClick image for larger version

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Old 09-09-2021, 05:58 AM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Markz View Post
Hope this one clears up things, contains wire chart.

LOL, things can get complicated quickly. Nice system.
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