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Old 09-20-2018, 09:48 AM   #21
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Name: Greg
Trailer: 2008 Casita 17' SD
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Just a suggestion, but when they pull the axle to replace it, I'd check to see if they wouldn't mind welding on a couple of 3' sections of square channel tubing under the existing main frame rails before they mount the new axle, (which most probably are 1 1/2" wide,) to gain a little more ground clearance and room inside the wheel wells. Kind of a "lift kit." They may even be able to install a couple of rectangular channels like 1 1/2" X 3" to get it up higher yet. You would also benefit from the ability to go with larger wheels as well. Just a thought...
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Old 09-20-2018, 10:25 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Casita Greg View Post
Just a suggestion, but when they pull the axle to replace it, I'd check to see if they wouldn't mind welding on a couple of 3' sections of square channel tubing under the existing main frame rails before they mount the new axle, (which most probably are 1 1/2" wide,) to gain a little more ground clearance and room inside the wheel wells. Kind of a "lift kit." They may even be able to install a couple of rectangular channels like 1 1/2" X 3" to get it up higher yet. You would also benefit from the ability to go with larger wheels as well. Just a thought...

Another advantage to this suggestion is that if they drill holes and weld nuts inside the tube, then the axle can be bolted on instead of welded. That way, 40 years from now, it will be much easier to change the axle. This is what Trillium / Outback did for me, but instead of raising the trailer, they used an up angle on the swing arms to keep it the same height.

Another way of getting more ground clearance is to order the swing arms at a larger down angle.
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Old 09-26-2018, 11:31 AM   #23
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Name: Curt
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Ditto my Trillium 4500

Quote:
Originally Posted by halfhitch View Post
Andrew, I cannot make out the label in your picture pertaining to the brand/model of your axle but given the fact that it is fairly new, I would be looking to see if it was just improperly set up initially and not fatigued and sagging. My boat trailer has torsion axles and the shaft coming out of the axle is splined. The lever that supports the spindle is splined also with a clamp bolt. This allows the arm to be slid off the splined shaft, rotated to the desired angle and slid back on the splined shaft that gives the proper ride height. My boat trailer axles are from 2004, have had the boat on it continually and is not sagging. I hope you can find someone to help you rectify your problem that doesn't take advantage. With the part numbers available to you on that tag, you can do some research online and figure out just what you have and how to set it up properly. Good luck.
I replaced my 40 year old axle with a new torsion unit. I Specified the angle that seemed right, and it came set up on splines. This should be easily adjustable.

A shop that knows what they are doing should NOT be expecting customer to bring in their own parts!



CJW
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Old 09-28-2018, 09:54 AM   #24
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Name: Jonathan
Trailer: Casita
Connecticut
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I bought a 16' 89 casita in 2005 with the forward facing swing arm. I bought a high rise from dexter with rear facing arms and some wire spoke wheels from an old pontiac. I had to fab in additional framing to accommodate the reverse swing arm. The axle was delivered to a dealer 30 miles away that I had to put in the back of the station wagon. They are relatively cheap. Now I have welded angle clips that hold the axle with tw2 bolts each side. Next axle change will be easy......
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Old 10-03-2018, 02:06 PM   #25
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Name: katie
Trailer: trillium
CA
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Thank you for all the help with troubleshooting and ordering our new Dexter torsion axle for our 2014 trillium. Im not sure what angle to go with. Currently its at a 0 angle but goes up with the load to a +10. we need more clearance in the wheel well, so would you recommend a -10 or a -22.5 (these are set angles from dexter). im leaning toward a -22.5.
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Old 10-03-2018, 02:31 PM   #26
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Judging from your photo and looking at the Dexter Torflex application guide, I would say -22.5 degrees. That gives you 2.25" more space than you would get with a zero degree axle according to the application guide.

However it really depends on whether you are ordering:

- Dexter #9 or #10
- low or high profile bracket

Also, I would recommend installing the axle with a Dexter (or custom) bolt on bracket instead of welding. Then the axle can be easily replaced or a spacer can be added to raise the trailer.

EDIT: I also recommend ordering with brakes (much cheaper than adding later), or at least order with brake plates.
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Old 10-03-2018, 03:13 PM   #27
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Name: katie
Trailer: trillium
CA
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thanks John,
we were going to go with the #9 low profile bracket. but your estimate on inches really helps.
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Old 10-03-2018, 04:00 PM   #28
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Katie, I got my estimates on page 12 of the attached link (Dexter light duty torsion axle catalog):

https://www.dexteraxle.com/docs/defa...).pdf?sfvrsn=2
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Old 10-28-2018, 11:27 AM   #29
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Name: Andrew
Trailer: Trillium
California
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Hi All,

So our new axle is installed and the clearance issue is solved! We went with a #9 Dexter with a 22.5 deg down angle and electric brakes. Unfortunately, the brakes on the new axle do not seem to be functioning properly ! I drove away from the shop and noticed right away that the brakes were much less powerful than on the old axle so I pulled over and did some testing.

I have a tekonsha prodigy RF brake controller and turned the power up to full blast. When I engage the manual function, the controller says I am delivering 12 volts to the brakes, but the braking function is barely noticeable (if I release the brake on my car, it will start idling away). I do feel something, but not much. It seems to me that even the smaller brakes should at least stop my car from idling at full power!

I called the shop before I got too far away and they talked about breaking in the brakes and the fact that the new axle brakes are 7 in (where my old ones were 10 in). So I drove home about 50 mi with lots of hills and braking...both trailer brakes were hot when I got home but no improvement in braking during the trip.

Some subsequent research pointed to adjusting the breaks (using a screw driver to adjust a nut on the inside of the wheel). I did this, but no improvement. Any advice for next steps?

Thanks!
-Andrew
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Old 10-28-2018, 12:20 PM   #30
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7" brakes are simply not a strong or effective as 10".
Still they are adequate for a 13' fiberglass trailer.
They were developed for use on such things as snowmobile trailers which use 8" wheels.
If you expect them to be as aggressive as 10" you will be disappointed.
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Old 10-28-2018, 12:57 PM   #31
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7" brakes can never do what 10" brakes can, but new brakes do wear in and become much stronger. It seems like it will take a long time, but I suggest giving them some miles to prove themselves. For instance, my 10" brakes would not skid when new and after a few thousand miles they would skid at about 1/2 on the controller.
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Old 10-29-2018, 07:52 PM   #32
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Name: Steve
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Talk to the shop about swapping your old brakes on to your new axle. 10 inch drums will have 50 % more braking power than the 7 in drums. When you compare that to a 1500lb trailer that is a whole lotta force.
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Old 10-29-2018, 10:19 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevebaz View Post
Talk to the shop about swapping your old brakes on to your new axle. 10 inch drums will have 50 % more braking power than the 7 in drums. When you compare that to a 1500lb trailer that is a whole lotta force.
Won't fit.
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Old 12-03-2018, 11:44 AM   #34
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Name: Jorge
Trailer: Trillium
Ontario
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Hi, I am about to buy an axle for my 1974 Trillium, I was wondering how much clearance you have w/ the 22 degree axle and what size are your tires? Are you happy with it?
My 13" came w/ 14" tires and they are a higher profile.
Thanks.
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