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View Poll Results: Has anyone out there made their own logo?
Yes 4 57.14%
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Old 09-13-2014, 09:58 PM   #1
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Burro Logo

Here is a homemade high definition logo.
Not the best but I am going to get it printed on a decal
Looks OK from a distance!
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BURRO LOGO FREE.jpg   burro 016.jpg  

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Old 09-14-2014, 08:42 AM   #2
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Another Logo

Here's another...............
I'll post pictures after I order the decal and put it on my trailer.

BTW- I have my Burro parked in my driveway. When I bought her she was all dirty and falling apart and parts were dragging down the road as I pulled her home.

Now she's sparkling white, new tires, new lights, new frame, new paint, new floor, new electrical, new propane system, new cushions, new curtains, now people are stopping and asking if they can look inside!

I can't get the door to lock and I don't have a key so I just trust that the universe will keep her and her contents safe. I don't keep anything of extreme value inside and I figure, even if I had a lock, all it would take is a screwdriver and a hammer for someone to get inside. This way, if someone wants in, at least they won't damage the trailer.

I'm having fun with the restoration. I wish others would post more pics too!

BTW- I selected a luxury vinyl planking for the floor made by Kinectco, it's water resistant and really easy to install.

John
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Old 09-14-2014, 02:08 PM   #3
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The original decals on my unrestored (the outside shell, at least) Burro have gotten pretty faded, so when VA offered permanent, personalized license plates, I jumped on "83 Burro" as seen in my avatar. People still ask me what it is. I guess you just can't win!

To the OP re: your lock. If you have a good, operational lock sans key, take it to any good locksmith. He can make a "bang key" with the proper blank thinned down, then use it to cut one or more (I voted for "more") regular keys from that one. It was a lot cheaper than buying a whole new lock, and mine has worked perfectly.

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Old 09-15-2014, 07:22 PM   #4
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I like it!


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Old 09-16-2014, 11:32 AM   #5
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My side logos started lifting around the edges so I just removed them.
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Old 09-16-2014, 07:28 PM   #6
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Looks good John and I would go with it. Glad you are enjoying the restore of your camper,Keep up the good work.

I am a member on a glamper sight and when someone ask if we like something or IF they should do something some certain way or not we always say...if you like it If it makes you happy then just Do It,cause you are the one that lives/camps in it. Needless to say most of our members are ladies that are just learning about campers and repairs.

Happy Camping
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Old 09-16-2014, 08:09 PM   #7
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Exclamation This topic has been edited

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Old 09-16-2014, 08:17 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Colangelo View Post
I can't get the door to lock and I don't have a key so I just trust that the universe will keep her and her contents safe. I don't keep anything of extreme value inside and I figure, even if I had a lock, all it would take is a screwdriver and a hammer for someone to get inside. This way, if someone wants in, at least they won't damage the trailer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Green Frog View Post
If you have a good, operational lock sans key, take it to any good locksmith. He can make a "bang key" with the proper blank thinned down, then use it to cut one or more (I voted for "more") regular keys from that one. It was a lot cheaper than buying a whole new lock, and mine has worked perfectly.
Trespassers may not damage the door, but have been known to cause damage inside. I agree with Froggy. I removed the lockset from the door of my Compact Jr and took it to a local locksmith shop. It was an interesting process to observe, and I had 2 keys made for less than $5.00
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Old 09-16-2014, 08:23 PM   #9
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Inappropriate comments, and all responses to those comments have been removed.
Works for me! Thanks Frederick for keeping FiberglassRV welcoming, kind and helpful
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Old 09-17-2014, 03:44 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frederick L. Simson View Post
Trespassers may not damage the door, but have been known to cause damage inside. I agree with Froggy. I removed the lockset from the door of my Compact Jr and took it to a local locksmith shop. It was an interesting process to observe, and I had 2 keys made for less than $5.00
In the case of my then over 25 year old Burro, the lock set had become a collector's item, going for $150-200 or more when you could find them at all from flea-Bay or other sites, so I knew I wanted to save what I had if possible. Like FLS, I took my whole lock assembly off (about 3-4 screws, IIRC) and carried it to the locksmith. I think he charged about $5 or so for the first key, then once he had gone through the process once, additional keys were available at the normal price of about 95¢, so I had him cut several "just in case."

Those old locks are a little delicate, but if cared for, they will do pretty well, and since they were original to the unit, you don't have to worry about getting them to fit and line up with the rest of the assemblies. Of course while it was off of the door I could clean and lube mine, so it should last a long time more. I really dislike the looks of a hasp and padlock like so many people seem to resort to out of desperation, and having a proper key cut turned out to be one of the cheapest and easiest fixes I had to do with my resto work!

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Old 09-20-2014, 10:06 AM   #11
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I took your advice and found an awesome locksmith on Craigslist. He came to my house, looked at the lock and told me it was a great older lock and not to get rid of it. He took the cylinder out and replaced it and then made a few tweaks to the lock and now it works PERFECTLY and I have a key. He made two trips in his truck to my driveway, fixed it, tuned it, and installed it and charged me $29! I gave him a $10 tip for gas and shook his hand and thanked him profusely!
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Old 09-20-2014, 10:08 AM   #12
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How totally awesome! I bet you ladies have a lot of fun! Post some pics! Good for you!
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Old 09-20-2014, 10:09 AM   #13
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Donna, two of my smaller logos came in the mail yesterday! I would like to mail you one for being so nice! Do you have a BURRO?
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Old 09-20-2014, 12:16 PM   #14
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Donna, two of my smaller logos came in the mail yesterday! I would like to mail you one for being so nice! Do you have a BURRO?
No John, I don't have a Burro. Notice my signature. BUT HOW NICE OF YOU! I'm going to send you a PM.
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Old 09-20-2014, 06:44 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Colangelo View Post
I took your advice and found an awesome locksmith on Craigslist. He came to my house, looked at the lock and told me it was a great older lock and not to get rid of it. He took the cylinder out and replaced it and then made a few tweaks to the lock and now it works PERFECTLY and I have a key. He made two trips in his truck to my driveway, fixed it, tuned it, and installed it and charged me $29! I gave him a $10 tip for gas and shook his hand and thanked him profusely!
Glad you had a good experience with your locksmith. The good ones tend to be very busy, but the work they do is worth waiting for. A guy who just sells and installs an new lock that has to have alterations to your door is not a real craftsman, your locksmith obviously is. Be sure and have several spare keys made for it... I may be a little OCD about it, but where keys are concerned "one is none and two is one."I won't broadcast my stash methods of course and you should come up with ones that will work for you, but I have three sets of keys (door lock and tongue lock) within less than fifty feet of my camper as I lay in it typing right now.

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Old 09-23-2014, 08:13 AM   #16
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Hi John,

Glad to hear that you got your door latch/lock fixed. The latch in our Burro is quite worn and getting frail, to the point that the door could be opened even when "locked". So I installed a deadbolt. I found a chrome Kwickset deadbold with a "thick door adapter kit". It installs about 3-4 inches above the door handle and works great. It is very secure and the chrome matches the original door hardware. I installed the bolt to fit tighter than the door latch so that when locked, the door gasket is squished more resulting in better protection from blowing rain and the infamous fine red sand of the 4 corners area of AZ.

Rick
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Old 09-23-2014, 03:31 PM   #17
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Deadbolt

Rick,

Would you mind taking a closeup picture of the deadbolt you installed and specify the model number again? I think many people would be interested. I was lucky to be able to have my lock fixed but there are many people who write in to say they cannot fix their lock and need a solution. Did you actually drill a hold in the door and in the jamb?

Please detail the steps and let us know what you did.

Thanks!
John
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Old 09-23-2014, 03:34 PM   #18
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Patching Fiberglass around the door hinges

I forgot to ask, what have you all used to patch holes in the fiberglass? I have several screw holes I filled and patched, sanded, and then painted. I found a good wood fill product that works with fiberglass at LOWE'S. It comes in a small tube (like toothpaste) but I'm wondering if there is a more suitable product to use besides the complex polymers used to patch fiberglass that require several mixing steps. I bet there are some instant "out of the tube" epoxy resins that would work.

Thanks!
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Old 09-23-2014, 04:37 PM   #19
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I haven't gotten around to it yet, but any external repairs to my Burro will probably begin at a boat yard that specializes in fiberglass boats. Second choice... a Corvette shop, but those guys are a little more expensive most of the time. Ultimately, I'll need a complete refinish of the outside (it's actually overdue) but I want to do more on the inside first. YMMV

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Old 09-23-2014, 07:31 PM   #20
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Hi John,

I will take a pix of the deadbolt tomorrow and post but here are the details.

Basically it is installed just as in any door. You drill a 2 1/8" hole through the door with a hole saw, (actually drill in from both sides for a cleaner cut). And drill a 1" hole in the door edge. These sizes and a template are included with the deadbolt, just like they are includes with a new doorknob. So you don't have to remember them.

The tricky part is getting the big hole in the correct place as the template cannot be used in its customary position, wrapped around the door, because of the lip on the outside of the door. To get around this I folded the template and used it only on the back side to get the correct backset distance (distance that the center of the bolt is from the edge of the door). I then drilled a pilot hole from that side thru to the other side, then use the hole saw to make the cut in from each side. You always want to drill IN on a finished surface whenever possible.

The bolt aligned nicely with the back edge of the lip on the door jamb, so the latch plate was not used, only a thin plastic spacer glued to the back of the jamb lip. So you must be careful when drilling the bolt hole in the door edge so that the bolt does not want to come out centered on the jamb lip. It must be behind it. But you have some allowance for this as the thickness of your door seal material will effect the placement of the door.

We found the Kwikset deadbolt online (cannot remember where) only because we wanted polished chrome to match the hinges, and this model has an option for thick doors which is a must. The Burro door is 2 1/4" thick. Most doors are 1 3/4" thick. The extension thing just makes the mounting screws and bolt moving pin longer. Total for bolt and extension was under $20.

If you are filling smallish holes in interior or exterior of the Burro, there is a great epoxy product in a clear plastic tube, shaped like a Tootsie Roll. It's called "Water Patch" or something like that. It contains 2 part epoxy which is thick like plumbers putty. You slice off the appropriate amount then kneed it like pastry dough to mix the 2 parts together till the color is fairly even you won't get it perfectly mixed but that's not needed). Then just jamb it into the holes enough so that some product protrudes through the hole to help hold it in place. Use a smooth sharp plastic blade like an old credit card to scrape it smooth. It is kinda dry and sticky so you will learn on the first few holes. Spend time to get this as smooth as you can since is will be VERY hard when cured the next day. It is difficult but not impossible to sand. It WILL be impossible to sand it without scratching the surrounding FG surface, so apply it with care.

This stuff is very strong and the best part is that it is almost the same off white as the Burro Gelcoat (a little bit darker). It is very sticky so wear latex gloves when kneading it.

Rick
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