Casita Window Install

[AmyFL]

Hi - I am ordering a new door window for my 17’ Independence. I would like a window that I can see out of, as well as one that opens. I am also ordering a small oval window to install on the front of the camper (I want to be able to see out of the front as well). I can PROBABLY do the door myself, but need a professional for the new window on the front. Does anyone have a suggestion where to go? I live on the east coast of Florida, south of Daytona. Thank you! Amy

[Casita Greg]

Here's the specs and info on the window package I installed in the front end of my 2008 17'SD Casita shortly after I bought it new. That was also one of the things that irritated me early on, was not being able to see anything going on "up front" without having to physically go outside to look around.

Peninsula Glass Co.
Motion Windows Division
6005 N. E. 121st Avenue
Vancouver, WA 98682

1-800-468-4323

WA. local call: 1-360-892-2029

Fax: 1-360-213-1274

Specifics: (Per my order sheet)

10"w X 6"h, Series 1600 single pane, rectangle, stationary, black anodized frame, solar gray tint, 2 1/2" radius corners, 1 5/8" wall thickness.

Include Flange Sealant Tape per window, RV Type: Closed Cell Foam.

My price, (in 2008,) "out the door" incl. shipping was then $174.00, but it's probably more now. That was 14 years ago.

They keep good records, so if you like what I installed, you can have them refer to my original order, placed on 4/11/08. I chose the smoked gray tint, but you can get a different tint if you desire. Here's some links for them and the windows...

http://www.motionwindows.com/index.php

http://www.motionwindows.com/prod1600.php

http://www.motionwindows.com/measuring-guide.pdf

Installation isn't hard, but it can be a bit daunting, making a big new hole in the front of your new egg. I found that by triangulating and measuring from several symmetrical points on the trailer shell and frame, that I was able to get it centered pretty well. Always step back and get a visual look at your "centering spot" to be sure that you are finally satisfied that it is centered where you want it "by eye" as well before you start cutting. (The old "measure twice and cut once" axiom.)

There are two "walls" that you will be going through, so once you pattern out your cut line, I would suggest cutting a smaller, (say about 3",) pilot hole in the middle of your proposed window cut-out just to make sure everything is where you want it. There is also carpeting sandwiched between the outer shell wall and the inner shower enclosure wall. You will also find an air space separation between the two walls of approximately 1 1/2". There aren't any interferences or hidden utilities in the area, such as wiring, etc. As to the actual cutting, I would recommend a Roto-Zip tool. A jig saw probably would work, but the Roto-Zip sure makes it much easier and neater. Even though the window frame has a certain amount of "depth" I wanted to really seal it well (it is a shower after all), so I gooped the small gap between the two halves (from the shower side) with black marine grade flexible sealant (I used Sika-Flex which I got at West Marine). Always pre-fit both halves dry first to make sure that they will snug up with the trailer wall surfaces before applying the seam tape. Due to minor variations in production, the distances between the inner and outer walls may vary slightly from trailer to trailer. A good "check fit" will be necessary, and you may possibly need to grind a little bit of the inner spacer lip. I didn't have to with mine, but it could be slightly different in your case. Just be sure to make sure that both halves don't actually touch internally, or you won't get a good tight seal. (This is where the marine sealant will fill any gap left over after tightening the halves together).

The actual installation is with the window's provided screws, through the interior half of the frame into the exterior half. Oh, and did I forget to mention...you will definitely need two people to install this, one outside to push against it and hold it in place, and one to screw the inside half to it. Hope this helps. If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.

Greg

[Casita Greg]

Part 2 of your question above:
This is my replacement entry door window that I installed to replace that cheap plastic frosted crinkle window. This one is actually tempered glass, has an aluminum frame, (like all the other trailer windows have,) and has an openable lower half. I also ordered the screen for it, but that may have been a bit of "overkill" because you already have a screen door inside the entry door.

This is a "cut & paste" of a post I made here several years ago about my Attwood EDWIN RV entry door window replacement.

https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...dow-58504.html

[Casita Greg]

Don't you just love it when people ask for help and information, which you spend a large amount of time compiling and putting together for them, and then they don't even come back to even check the posts they started?

[AmyFL]

Hello - I am not sure why I never followed up with this post. Of course I appreciate the valuable information, I am finally moving forward with the door window and port hole. Thank you again for the thorough information. Amy

[AmyFL]

You are always very helpful.

[AmyFL]

Originally Posted by Casita Greg

Don't you just love it when people ask for help and information, which you spend a large amount of time compiling and putting together for them, and then they don't even come back to even check the posts they started?

So - I am late getting it done, but I ordered my new window and found an install person. I so appreciate everything you explained. I am a teacher, and was probably ready for my vacation a year ago when I originally posted. It is again Spring Break - headed to Anastasia Island, St. Augustine, FL. Will get my window installed - finally - before my Canada trip. Also installing a new window on my door. Thanks again - Happy camping! Amy

[Casita Greg]

You're quite welcome, and welcome back!

[AmyFL]

Thanks, Greg!

[Don La Honda Born]

Hi Greg.
Although the writer of the original post might have bailed, the information you provided is of general interest.
I noticed in your Casita picture that you have a window where the galley is in the SD Casitas (plus the hood vent and refrigerator vents are there). I have heard about using a Casita bathroom window for the galley. Is that what you did? Or is that also a window from Motion Windows.
Thank you.

[Casita Greg]

Yes, it is the same window that Casita installs in the bathroom, just mounted horizontally. I did drill a few new "weep holes" for water to escape in the bottom of the track for the slider section. It was originally just drilled for vertical mounting installation.

[Heather Rennae]

Greg,
I was just searching to see if anyone used a Casita bathroom window to put in place of the range hood vent hole instead of installing the porthole window everyone else brags about. May I ask why you kept the range vent along with adding the window? Would the window not fit where the vent was already cut?
Thanks,
Heather

[Casita Greg]

Originally Posted by Heather Rennae

Greg,
I was just searching to see if anyone used a Casita bathroom window to put in place of the range hood vent hole instead of installing the porthole window everyone else brags about. May I ask why you kept the range vent along with adding the window? Would the window not fit where the vent was already cut?
Thanks,
Heather

Well, my "range hood vent" is no longer the big clunky ugly oversized range hood that the trailer originally came with. It is basically a reworked Wear-Ever rimmed aluminum baking "1/2 sheet" pan with the back end trimmed off so that it would mount flush to the front of the overhead cabinets, (inverted of course,) and riveted to the underside of the cabinet. It really made the gallley area look much larger than it did before I removed the old hood. The fans are computer "pancake fans" that I mounted in a piece of marine grade plastic call "Starboard." Not much different than a sythetic cutting board actually. They are wired to the existing 12 vdc wires that used to feed the light and fan of the old range hood. I added a simple toggle switch to control the fans, into the front of the overhead cabinet to turn them on and off.

It wasn't so much an installation that I made for ventilation, but was mainly to bring in more light in what used to be a very dark and dismal area in the galley. I like the extra natural light it provides, but it is also a functional screened window as well that can be used for additional ventilation. The screen also opens, so it's also a handy "pass-through" to hand me a cold beer without having to go outside to grab it.

I also swapped out the original two-burner stove and shallow "bird bath" galley sink as well. Now I have a real 9" deep sink and a much better stove, which is also much easier to clean, and it also has a click piezo burner igniter button. No more singed eyebrows lighting the stove.
And even with the deeper sink, I still have room underneath the sink for a nice deep shelf to hold all those long rolls of aluminum foil, parchment paper, Saran wrap, etc, that never really had a good place to store before I added the shelf. For reference, it sits at the top of the wheel well. I also converted the drain from the standard "P" trap to a HepVo bladder drain valve along the side to free up more space for storage underneath the sink cabinet.

And to answer the other part of your question, due to the physical location of the factory installed range vent exhaust cut-out, mounting the window higher up would make installation very difficult, if not impossible, due to the overhead cabinet being a point of interference with any window installation that high up.

[Heather Rennae]

Greg,
Thank you for that detailed response and explanation of your modifications. I was also looking to upgrade my sink and stove top. Wondered if that flush mount Dometic would fit on my countertop without losing the drawer underneath. Did you have to modify your storage below for that installation? Love the cutting board lid you made in place of the glass cover, and the computer fans are ingenious. Thanks for sharing all your hard work.
-Heather

[Casita Greg]

No depth modification needed for the new stove installation to fit above the "silverware drawer.". It's a "drop-in."
Here's a link to my stove that I put in. It will require a little bit of countertop cut out modification to slightly enlarge the rough opening, but not a deal breaker. My advice would be to do the opening enlargement as close to the sink side as you can, and you will also need a 90 degree gas elbow fitting to replace the one that it comes with. It comes with a straight one which won't work. Again, not a big deal to change out, but it will be necessary.

https://pantherrvproducts.com/50216/

[Heather Rennae]

Greg,
Appreciate the fitment confirmation and the gas elbow tip. Saved all your pics for future reference.
Thanks again!
Heather

[Don La Honda Born]

Thank you Greg.
Seems your reply was of general interest.
I'll add my appreciation of the description and pics of the range "hood" and fan modification. And a shout out for the pics of a HepvO trap to get you a shelf under the sink! Plus showing the look and required adjustments for the Dometic D21 stove should help anyone on the fence about that replacement.

I'd call that a hat trick.
Thanks again,
Don