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Old 01-14-2013, 07:31 PM   #21
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You're right Bob, that's what's happening. I need to figure out how much the fridge is drawing. and my wife did have a coffee maker plugged in running too as I recall. and maybe something else.
Coffee maker would do it.
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Old 01-14-2013, 09:04 PM   #22
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I pulled the ash trays and mounted a cigarette lighter type power point in the recessed pocket for phones, etc.
Tom,

Where on the fuse panel did you tie your 12v outlets? or did you run a separate fused drop for them?
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Old 01-14-2013, 09:47 PM   #23
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Sean, you could add an inline fuse holder right off the battery if there aren't enough extra fuses in the original fuse panel. Mine is gone so I don't remember just how it was wired. Depends on what you want to run off 12 volts, we have 6 interior lights and one outside light, plus a 12 volt power plug which we have used for a 12 volt blanket.When I installed the new Progressive Dynamics power converter, it has 12 fused circuits for 12 volt power, plus a main 110 breaker and space for two other breakers. My opinion it's a great update to the trailer, well worth the money and time. It charges the battery too.
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Old 01-14-2013, 10:14 PM   #24
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Pam, what I said (in Male Martian), was that I'm too cheap to install a modern converter.
LOL ! got it ...what I don't get is the whole REST of the stuff.
My camper has the original orange box converter (inverter?) that charges my 5year old walmart battery (that the guy put in when he sold me the camper)... I plug it in a few times in the winter to charge. BUT I also don't camp off the grid, I just use the battery for lights every so often.

I also had my camper place put in new wiring and a 30 amp circuit panel so I wouldn't worry about overloading anything.

I know, I know, you guys are all are cringing right now.
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Old 01-15-2013, 09:14 AM   #25
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Tom,

Where on the fuse panel did you tie your 12v outlets? or did you run a separate fused drop for them?
I ended up making a small secondary panel to hold an ammeter and some additional fuses. The suggestion to just add an additional inline fuse is a good one. Just hook it up to the "battery" terminal on the converter.

Amazon.com: In-line ACT Water-resistant Fuse Holder - 10 AWG: Automotive
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Old 01-15-2013, 09:18 AM   #26
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LOL ! got it ...what I don't get is the whole REST of the stuff.
My camper has the original orange box converter (inverter?) that charges my 5year old walmart battery (that the guy put in when he sold me the camper)... I plug it in a few times in the winter to charge. BUT I also don't camp off the grid, I just use the battery for lights every so often.

I also had my camper place put in new wiring and a 30 amp circuit panel so I wouldn't worry about overloading anything.

I know, I know, you guys are all are cringing right now.
That's cool. Just don't leave it plugged in for days and days or it will overcharge the battery. You should also check the water level in your battery occasionally, if it has the pop off caps. Use only distilled water to top it off.
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Old 01-15-2013, 10:05 AM   #27
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You could also buy a small fuse panel and wire it to the battery, I was going to go that route before I bought the new converter. I think I found some fuse panels at NAPA auto parts.
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Old 01-15-2013, 11:53 AM   #28
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You could also buy a small fuse panel and wire it to the battery, I was going to go that route before I bought the new converter. I think I found some fuse panels at NAPA auto parts.
Sources.

12 Volt ATC Fuse Panel 12 Circuits 3 Positive Battery Lugs Victory 30507039 | eBay


NAPA AUTO PARTS | PART DETAILS


http://www.amazon.com/HELLA-H8496009...rds=fuse+block
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Old 01-15-2013, 12:26 PM   #29
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My too-lazy-to-upfit-solution

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Coffee maker would do it.
Especially since the fridge is on 110 too!

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You're right Bob, that's what's happening. I need to figure out how much the fridge is drawing. and my wife did have a coffee maker plugged in running too as I recall. and maybe something else.
The fridge is a 110v vampire...

I rarely have hookups, but if I do and they're thirty amps or more, I actually run a separate cord for the fridge, which is plugged in to an outlet in the fridge compartment. I just open the access door, unplug, and plug into extension cord.

That leaves all 15 of my inside amps available for other uses!

Francesca
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Old 01-15-2013, 01:37 PM   #30
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Thanks for all the great info.

Francesca, That's a great idea. I'd already been thinking of running a separate line out the utility panel just for the fridge. Most of the state parks I visit have 15, 30, and 50 amp service so I have hooked up to both the 30 and 15 amp before. (hook the camper to one and use an extension cord for outdoor stuff off the other. I assume if I do run across a single outlet I'll just use a Y adapter. Now to figure out the logistics and find 6-9ft of 14/3 SOOW cable.
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Old 01-15-2013, 01:47 PM   #31
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Glad to pass along a tip from Camp Cheapskate...when I have to pay to camp, I'm determined to use as much of what I'm paying for as possible!

My left rear hatch contains my "all electric" kit: extension cords, percolator, heater, and a "hot water heater" that began life as a 30 cup coffeemaker. I just wish there was room for a toaster oven and a crockpot...

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