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10-30-2012, 12:56 PM
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#21
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Junior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: U-Haul CT
Missouri
Posts: 23
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Oh yes, I should thank the correct person for the information about supporting the roof. THANKS Tom.
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10-30-2012, 02:09 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Name: Michael J
Trailer: U-Haul VT
Indiana
Posts: 505
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[QUOTE=EXCS_CT;342574]I worked on the trailer for a short while this AM. I removed the back window and started to convert the tail lights to LEDs.
I have the fiberglass resin and mesh to reinforce the top of the trailer for the air conditioner.
I have attached pictures as to how the AC is mounted in the VT. aside from the fact that the inner and outer shells are molded different to transfer the load from the AC through the walls to the floor I think you can probably reinforce the roof and take advantage of where the double walls meet to accomplish the same thing. The wide seam of the CT is probably about the same width of the AC cut out which is probably why Don is getting by with his. the issue will be the "bounce" the mass of the AC gives to the roof as you hit bumps. you don't want just the outside hull of the trailer to take that shock load because after awhile it will fatigue. inside metal dimensions 17 x19" beauty ring (not shown) 22x19.5"
Pictures attached for your amusement
Michael J.
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10-31-2012, 10:37 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Name: Dave and Shelly
Trailer: 2001 Spirit Deluxe Casita "New Name: Eggspensive"
Iowa
Posts: 378
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Wow looking good. I love these threads bringing something unloved back to all it's glory!
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10-31-2012, 08:54 PM
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#25
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Junior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: U-Haul CT
Missouri
Posts: 23
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I was able to spend a little time in the shop today. I worked on the tail lights. I decided to cut out some of the body and insert the new housings flush with the outer skin of the trailer. The following pictures hopefully give you some idea of the way it worked. Obviously, there is still some sanding to be done.
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11-04-2012, 06:15 PM
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#26
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Junior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: U-Haul CT
Missouri
Posts: 23
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Well the trailer is almost totally empty. I removed all of the doors etc. I then found that the floor is rotten in the front and in the rear. So, it looks like I'm going to take the shell off of the frame and replace the wood. While it is off I will be cleaning and restoring the frame. On first look it seems to be in good solid condition. There sure seems to be quite a few small machine screws holding the shell to the frame. Most of which are apparently well rusted.
I'll send pictures as soon as I can take time to take some. If anyone has any suggestions for removing the old wood floor and installing a new one, I'd sure love to hear them.
Thanks in advance.
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11-04-2012, 06:26 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 5,112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EXCS_CT
Well the trailer is almost totally empty. I removed all of the doors etc. I then found that the floor is rotten in the front and in the rear. So, it looks like I'm going to take the shell off of the frame and replace the wood. While it is off I will be cleaning and restoring the frame. On first look it seems to be in good solid condition. There sure seems to be quite a few small machine screws holding the shell to the frame. Most of which are apparently well rusted.
I'll send pictures as soon as I can take time to take some. If anyone has any suggestions for removing the old wood floor and installing a new one, I'd sure love to hear them.
Thanks in advance.
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Is there any chance that you can repair the rotten sections with a product like GitRot? It is a thin resin that penetrates the rotten (but dried out) wood and hardens into a rigid mass.
Amazon.com: BoatLIFE Git - Rot Liquid Epoxy: Sports & Outdoors
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11-04-2012, 06:29 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Name: Michael J
Trailer: U-Haul VT
Indiana
Posts: 505
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The machine screws are actually elevator bolts 1/4 20 about 1.5 to 1.75 " you will see the tops as circles about 1.25 " dia. in the floor. The floor is about .5" plywood with a fiberglass top and bottom fiberglassed to the inner and outer shells. Replacement is going to be an interesting task. You might want to consider the thin epoxy that is injected into rotted wood as an option.
Michael J
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11-04-2012, 08:22 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Name: don
Trailer: 1985 U-Haul CT-13
Florida
Posts: 392
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EXCS_CT
Well the trailer is almost totally empty. I removed all of the doors etc. I then found that the floor is rotten in the front and in the rear. So, it looks like I'm going to take the shell off of the frame and replace the wood. While it is off I will be cleaning and restoring the frame. On first look it seems to be in good solid condition. There sure seems to be quite a few small machine screws holding the shell to the frame. Most of which are apparently well rusted.
I'll send pictures as soon as I can take time to take some. If anyone has any suggestions for removing the old wood floor and installing a new one, I'd sure love to hear them.
Thanks in advance.
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Mr. Dave,
If you have not seen Mr. Frederic's thread you might find it interesting.
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ect-51153.html
A PM to him mind yield you some info. Also, many of us will find your
wood repair of great interest!!!
__________________
don '85 CT-13 PEACE be with you!
"Sometimes the hunt is better than the catch"
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11-04-2012, 09:52 PM
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#30
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Junior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: U-Haul CT
Missouri
Posts: 23
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My original thought was to reinforce the soft spots in the floor. But, the front spot is simply missing. Nothing left to reinforce. My thinking now is to replace all of the plywood. It is probably a good think that this has happened as I found that many/most of the hold down bolts (elevator bolts) have rusted away. So far I think I found only three or four that were still in good shape.
I hope to get some pics of what I have found tomorrow. I'll post as things progress.
Thanks for all of your suggestions and directing me to Mr Fredrick's thread. It is indeed inspiring.
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11-04-2012, 10:17 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,416
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Apparently it is common for the elevator bolts to be rusted or missing. Our Uhaul had 4 broken, and others broke when turned with a wrench. I replaced all that were accessible and not under carpet. I used 5/16 bolts with large fender washers against the floor. Is it feasible to just lay something over the floor after patching in the bad spots, another sheet of plywood, or thick aluminum and fiberglassing that in. Or jack up the body and put new plywood under the old floor and patch in the bad spots. Seems like removing the body and replacing the whole floor will be a big project that may go bad. Not easy considering the inner shell, cabinets, benches, and all that. I know it's been done but not a project I would want to do.
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11-05-2012, 06:59 PM
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#32
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Junior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: U-Haul CT
Missouri
Posts: 23
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Here are a couple of pics to show the hole. I also attached a couple of pics of my other projects that I have underway at the present.
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11-05-2012, 07:11 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Name: Steve and Janna
Trailer: '02 Scamp 13
North Carolina
Posts: 185
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You are a busy guy!
The pick-em-up looks interesting. Dodge? I love old pick ups!
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11-05-2012, 07:21 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
Name: Roger
Trailer: U Hall VT
Michigan
Posts: 438
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas G.
Mr. Don, I'll wait right here.
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Don, I'll wait right here to see them also.
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11-05-2012, 07:26 PM
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#35
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Junior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: U-Haul CT
Missouri
Posts: 23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_N_Janna
You are a busy guy!
The pick-em-up looks interesting. Dodge? I love old pick ups!
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It's a '49 Studebaker. However it is a full on custom. So, about all that is still Sudebaker is the sheet metal all of which has been modified. It will by our tow vehicle when it is complete. I am in hopes that both the truck and the trailer are ready next summer.
The other vehicle in the background is a '49 Packard Super Eight convertible. I restored it a few years back.
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11-05-2012, 07:42 PM
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#36
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 5,112
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I looks like the trailer sat nose down and water ate a hole in the floor. I think it is fixable. There is little weight bearing at this location. Maybe cut out the rotten part and install a new piece of plywood with fiberglass top and bottom.
On mine, I used a 1" soffit vent as a drain so if water ever enters, it has a way out.
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11-05-2012, 07:51 PM
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#37
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Junior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: U-Haul CT
Missouri
Posts: 23
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I may see if I can do as you suggest and then replace all of the body bolts. The vent idea is a distinct possibility as well.
Thanks for the idea.
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11-05-2012, 07:52 PM
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#38
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,416
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Tom, where did you put that drain, and is one enough?
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11-05-2012, 08:24 PM
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#39
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 5,112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mary and bob
Tom, where did you put that drain, and is one enough?
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Bob, I just put one next to the battery and store nose up. One at each end would be better.
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11-06-2012, 07:23 AM
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#40
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Senior Member
Name: Steve and Janna
Trailer: '02 Scamp 13
North Carolina
Posts: 185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EXCS_CT
It's a '49 Studebaker.
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I thought maybe a Studebaker - but the grill threw me off.
I grew up in the South Bend, Indiana area. As you may know, there are still plenty of Hawks, Larks, Champs and even Avantis prowling around that town - and a nice little Studebaker museum.
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