Springy 2000 Casita SD Floor

[trentn]

Originally Posted by Borrego Dave

Trent, Kootenaigirl posted 3 threads for you in post #14. The "rookie vs 1999" is the one you should read through. Shaggydoink did a fantastic job, both on the repairs but also documenting everything with great pics. This is what you're looking for .

Thanks for reminding me. I've been to those and more on three or four of the fiber glass sites. Of course, I started searching the moment I realized my floor was rotted. Shaggydoink was one of the first I discovered about three weeks ago. He did a remarkable job. Which makes me wonder if I should be posting here. I've looked for a way to delete the whole thread.

Right now, it seems more important to me to bow out than continuing. I just thought documenting this would somehow help someone, or be useful as a journey. Now I know why so many of those rebuilds stopped at the tear down stage, and the OP left the forum after ten or less posts.

I'm out.

[Borrego Dave]

Originally Posted by trentn

Thanks for reminding me. I've been to those and more on three or four of the fiber glass sites. Of course, I started searching the moment I realized my floor was rotted. Shaggydoink was one of the first I discovered about three weeks ago. He did a remarkable job. Which makes me wonder if I should be posting here. I've looked for a way to delete the whole thread.
Right now, it seems more important to me to bow out than continuing. I just thought documenting this would somehow help someone, or be useful as a journey. Now I know why so many of those rebuilds stopped at the tear down stage, and the OP left the forum after ten or less posts.
I'm out.

Not sure what you mean about bowing out...the repair or thread. A few things to ponder. Shaggy did a slew more than just replacing the floor, basically a total rebuild. His floor replacement may have been one of the easier fixes . I totally agree with you on many TTs that get gutted and then sold off for peanuts. Being you've already bought materials and started the floor pull up, I'd keep going and finish it off, go camping and enjoy the fruits of your labor. I also don't see any pluses to deleting this thread. If you do finish the floor, start a new thread and document with pics that may help others. If you do decide to let it go, this thread may be of benefit for a newbie lurking, reading posts before buying. There is a buyers checklist in the document center on this site but a newbie wouldn't know without asking what to look for. This thread may be the light bulb that goes off for them. Bottom line Trent, you're not the first person to find a large problem after the purchase and it's fixable.

[CasitaInFL]

I replaced the floor in my 13' Casita. Here are some pics and info on it.
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ion-81235.html

If you are not removing the interior pieces. I would make sure the rot ends before going under the interior pieces. If it doesn't, it will obviously be rotten under those interior pieces. How much you care about that is up to you. If you are just trying to use it, I would focus on trying not to remove interior pieces. You don't walk where the interior pieces are and you will be creating a lot more work for yourself.

If you are welding another support beam to go across the bottom of the trailer to attach to, bend the ends of the support at 45 degree angles and this will give you an inch or two where it attaches to the frame rail to weld it up. Since you removed the plywood floor, you can stick some shims between the brace and the underside of the floor and create a little air gap so you can tack weld your new support beam to your old support beam. Go real slow and let things cool off and the heat build up shouldn't be too bad.

I don't see a problem with box jointing the plywood along the support rail as long as you have enough material from each board on the rails to support the weight of someone walking. If you fiberglass under and over the new wood, I really don't see there being a problem with strength. Will have to be stronger than what was in there.

I wouldn't bow out just yet. Seems as though if you fix the floor you should be pretty close to being able to use it.

[k0wtz]

If it was mine I wouldn't worry to much about non-traffic areas build your undersupport up and go from there!

Surprises me that these manufactures don't spent the extra 50bux to insure this doesn't happen. you are on the right track with the marine plywood which should have been there in the first place.

good luck

bob

[trentn]

Originally Posted by CasitaInFL

I replaced the floor in my 13' Casita. Here are some pics and info on it.
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ion-81235.html
I wouldn't bow out just yet. Seems as though if you fix the floor you should be pretty close to being able to use it.

That is an incredible thread, and I've revisited your rebuild several times, from about the 2d day after I realized my floor was weak. I've pasted some of the highlights into my iOS notes. Thanks for sharing such a detailed renovation.

I can't bow out, my first few posts can't easily be deleted. But sticking around and seeing the last few positive and generous posts like yours gave me a better frame of mind to keep on going. Maybe even post more pictures, if it would help anyone at all. Me included, because I need to focus and stay with it.

[trentn]

Originally Posted by k0wtz

If it was mine I wouldn't worry to much about non-traffic areas build your undersupport up and go from there!

Surprises me that these manufactures don't spent the extra 50bux to insure this doesn't happen. you are on the right track with the marine plywood which should have been there in the first place.

good luck

bob

Thanks Bob. Several manufacturers do use OSB, then it's up to the owner to maintain. Many OSB floors on other Casita and Scamp threads I've passed through are totally disintegrated. Mine is halfway rotted, or halfway good, but that is enough to flex when straddling the joints and shifting weight from one foot to the other. Not a feeling of comfort.

The benches are firm, and don't rock or feel loose. I want to camp though, and am working the replacement in sections. First the traffic area. Maybe I'll pull the benches afterwards, in sections. Gutting everything at once would mean down time for camping, and the risk that I'd never get it back together.

[thrifty bill]

Sounds like a good plan. The only thing I would add is to find where the water is coming from. Common sources are plumbing (could be a very good time to upgrade to PEX, not sure when Casita went to PEX) and the refrigerator vent. When you consider the outside refrigerator vents on a Casita are on a curved section of the trailer's body, while they were meant for a vertical wall. I think there are several threads out there with fixes people have done to refrigerator vents.

+10 OSB is pretty common for trailer floors of all brands.

Here's a thread from the Airstream forum, looks like they used OSB from the mid 1980s until 2009 if not later. Don't feel bad about your Casita, imagine what people pay for Airstreams and the pictures I have seen of floor damage on Airstreams show it is much worse.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f44/...ard-80946.html

[trentn]

Originally Posted by thrifty bill

Sounds like a good plan. The only thing I would add is to find where the water is coming from. Common sources are plumbing (could be a very good time to upgrade to PEX, not sure when Casita went to PEX) and the refrigerator vent. When you consider the outside refrigerator vents on a Casita are on a curved section of the trailer's body, while they were meant for a vertical wall. I think there are several threads out there with fixes people have done to refrigerator vents.

+10 OSB is pretty common for trailer floors of all brands.

Here's a thread from the Airstream forum, looks like they used OSB from the mid 1980s until 2009 if not later. Don't feel bad about your Casita, imagine what people pay for Airstreams and the pictures I have seen of floor damage on Airstreams show it is much worse.

When did AS use OSB flooring (Oriented strand board)? - Airstream Forums

Thanks Bill. Tomorrow, the goal is to make a template for the rear half, cut out the plywood, then coat it with marine spar resin varnish. In between coats, I’m looking for leak sources.

I’ve pulled the refrigerator vent several times during heavy rainstorms, and it seems pretty dry. With refrigerator running, the drain tube is clear and dripping on the ground. I haven’t peeled off the floor in front of the refrigerator to see if it is damp. That should be accomplished in a couple of days.

Hope to do an air pressure test first, since everything is drained dry currently, then fill it with the pink, which should be easy to spot as it leaks out.

When I opened the small storage door near the fresh water tank, the drain hose was laying on the floor of the compartment. I pushed it on the barb of the spigot, but can’t help from wondering if that has been detached for long, and with water draining out on the floor.

I’m also suspecting the water heater, and will pull the anode and element soon to see if there are blue spots. The brass bypass valve looks like it could’ve leaked.

...and yes, I would like to change over to PEX and shark bite fittings.

[trentn]

Ugh. �� that water heater. Over 17 years old, the foam insulation has a squared chunk cut out, and it is so rusted on the outside. It looks to be replaced next spring, but needs to be isolated from any chance of leaking until then.

In order to put the water heater offline, I’ve read that the bypass valve lever should be horizontal, as it looks in the above picture. If correct, then that should keep all water from both city water, and fresh water inlets from flowing into it. I hope.

Also, I understand that the now dry, fresh water tank is filled from the fresh water inlet in the rear of my 2000 Casita. What I don’t know, is where the other water inlet, city water hydrant, spigot or faucet, leads to when it is properly connected. Will it seek its way into the fresh water tank too?

I’m hoping there is a check valve, or that the water lines are routed so that these can be two separate water supplies. I’d like to work in sections on the water system too, not only hot and cold, but also fresh and city. Then, components can be isolated and leak tested without interference or confusion from each other. Maybe that’s not eating this elephant properly, but I’ve not bitten into it yet, and don’t know.

[thrifty bill]

Yes, that looks like a leaking valve.

On our Escape water pump, there is a check valve built into the pump. Escape doesn't make water pumps of course, it comes from the same manufacturer others use. Anyway, like any check valve, they can stick or fail. Mine stuck, and all of a sudden, my water tank overflowed A LOT of water. Fortunately, the tank has a vent so the water came out there.

On our Casita, the drain connection failed. Ended up replacing the water tank. Basically, anywhere you have water in the camper, from the water tank, to the pump, to the HW heater, to the sink, to the toilet/shower/bath sink are all subject to potentially leaking.

In many ways, the Escape water plumbing is worse. Its on both sides of the trailer, at least to the half way forward point. It is buried under wood cabinets, no idea how you could inspect it/check it. Water tank is under the floor, so that eliminates some water leak into the trailer problems. Pump is under the bed, a PITA to get to, as is water heater. The plumbing is PEX, which I prefer. I would assume brand new Casitas are PEX as well.

And some people don't do a good job of winterizing their rigs. I have friends that don't winterize their trailer because it doesn't have a fresh water tank. But it has a fresh water hookup, sink and more. I explained those items need to be winterized too. The suggestion bounced right off, so we'll see if they do anything this winter.

[trentn]

Bill, the water routing diagram shows quite a bit of water lines surrounding most of the Casita too, and a check valve is shown, somewhat similar to the escape. Not sure which is the acorn or tree.

Escape's drainage is really appealing, and I'd definitely consider an Escape if the time comes to get a new or newer egg. I've got the brochures, and the 17b plan is my favorite, if the bathroom is desired. The 17A though, has a good sleeping arrangement with its two large beds, and no crawling over. Plus, price wise is comparable to a new casita that is loaded with almost every option, at nearly $25k. The extra options on the Escape though would increase it to $30k or more -- new.

We've camped with both dinettes turned into beds a couple of times before my tear up. Plus, a luggable Loo works for an emergency pee, and doesn't stink, without poo. Although a real bathroom is very convenient. I'm Tit-for-Tat on the Escape 17'ers until I reach a couple of years experience with my old Casita. Maybe I'll be happy with my renovation, and keep it instead.

[k0wtz]

when done you will have a very nice rig casita is top dollar all the way but those floors! Really gets me but that is what is done sometimes you can see goofups in the 500k rigs too!

When you are done you will know everything about your rig. Our A-Liner has a small problem I looked and looked for it finally found it and fixed it! I learned in the process where all my wiring went in the trailer!

Sometimes a challenge is good for us!!

bob

[trentn]

My observations on leaks...
1. Top of subfloor is solid for about 1/8” deep
2. Only damage is to subfloor bottom where it contacts fiberglass shell
3. Residual dampness under subfloor, minor and random
4. No trail from outside edges
5. Result of sealed condition, water not evaporating (No air drying possible).
6. Hold down screws and washers intact, not loose

Leaks...
Checked for rain-influenced factors
1. Not apparent in lower refrigerator vent
2. Ceiling and walls dry during and after rainstorms
3. Weep holes in windows to be cleaned out and double checked


... Visually inspected water heater
... Bypass valve corroded
... Insulation on WH has window cut by prior owner

Need to revisit WH, pull anode and flush clean
Possible WH replacement next spring

Fresh water tank...
Drain hose was disconnected and laying on floor when received
Check water system by air test or use antifreeze or a dye to trace leaks

Refrigerator?
Some condensate on floor when running?
It’s turned off now, no leak noticeable
Can’t inspect upper vent, it’s riveted in many spots
Is there a plastic replacement? https://store.casitatraveltrailers.c...454-name-price
Is it worth removing all rivets?

Camper walls and floor are bone dry now. No water is in plumbing system