Belly band leak in Scamp 13’

[MsSplinter]

First post here!
We recently purchased a 1986 Scamp 13’. We noticed water damage in the front passenger side, then much more extensive damage all across the back. The floors throughout need to be replaced 😔 but first we had to find the source of the leak. We purchased a moisture meter, and aside from the front window, all the moisture is isolated to below the belly band. So we’re assuming that’s where the water is coming in. We’re thinking we’ll have to replace the belly band at least. Is there more to it than that? And how do we even begin to fix this?

We’re new to this whole fiberglass trailer thing, and wouldn’t have purchased had we known the water damage was so extensive. The floors aren’t soft or anything, aside from the front and back, though the moisture meter is saying the floor is wet throughout the trailer.

I appreciate any help!

[redbarron55]

I spent a long time looking for the last leak in my Scamp as I rebuilt it. That last leak was the channel formed by the fiberglass bonding the top and bottom along the belly band. The belly band, if caulked along the bottom will help send the water into any crack in the seal between the two halves at the lip. Then it can be sent anywhere along that void that is formed by the bonding fiberglass on the inside.
Never caulk the bottom of the belly band and before you install that belly band make as certain as you can that the lips are sealed.
Then after installing the belly band carefully caulk the top mating surface of the belly band and the shell and also seal the top of any rivets used to attach the band.

[MsSplinter]

Good to know, thank you!

[MJo]

I’m fairly new to Scamp, so I read all the articles in RV Life. One that might help you talked about sealants. They recommended Dicor Sealants. There are 2 that they suggested, one is “leveling,” and one “non-sag, non-leveling”. So on a horizontal surface like the “belly band,” they recommended “leveling.”. Runs along the surface when applied. The article said these are better than others because they don’t dry out but stay flexible; they won’t crack so water can’t get through. I am hoping my comments will stimulate some more experienced RVers to add their experience.

[Glenn Baglo]

Originally Posted by MJo

There are 2 that they suggested, one is “leveling,” and one “non-sag, non-leveling”. So on a horizontal surface like the “belly band,” they recommended “leveling.”.

Levelling would run down a vertical surface like the belly band area. You would want to use "no sag" so it stays where it is put.

[MJo]

Thank you, was hoping you would comment, I wouldn’t want to get it backwards. The canisters do describe their use also. MJo.

[neauone]

I purchased a Scamp which had the same issues. Especially with older models which have untold miles on them ,usually have an unprecedented amount of work that needs to be done to them.

That being said I had to remove the belly band find the cracks that lay beneath it ( even the smallest hairline types) and fill them with a combination epoxy fiberglass filler. But be sure to sand and clean the areas of need.

If there is a gap between connecting pieces of the Scamp be sure to fill it as well with “bondo”.

Remember this about water, like electricity it takes the path of least resistance.

Therefore the rotted floor could be the place the water settled.
I had to remove the wall covering to find the source.
But it was all repaired .
The rivets had to be drilled out, I replaced them with stainless steel screws and locknuts.

Good luck