Hi, New 1985 U-haul owner looking for advice

[conbern]

Hi, I live in Ontario in the summer and am looking for an "Egg" group... Anyone know of one in the Barrie area??

Also, I want to pollish the U-haul and was sold Aerosspace Protectant 303. Has anyone used this product? Do I need to prep the surface with a deoxidizer before using it?

And, does anyone know if I will be able to paint the trailer after using this product. I won't be painting until mid summer, but I heard that sometimes certain kinds of polish can effect a future painting.

Thanks for any advice.

[RogerDat]

ANY polish that leaves a protective layer will need to be removed prior to painting. Utterly and completely removed.

If your painting for style that is cool, but if your painting to get a shine you should read this thread and check out the pictures.

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ell-43004.html

People are getting a stunning shine using a floor wax. It provides a deep durable shine. I would avoid it (or any polish) if I was planning to paint. Your going to put good money into the painting and any wax or polish residue will wreck a paint job.

You will just end up paying more to get the polish all off as part of the paint prep after a few months of use and if any gets missed.... not good.

[Donna D.]

I'm with Roger, I wouldn't put any wax or polish on for just a few months if planning to paint. ESPECIALLY if the wax or polish contains silicone... that stuff is nasty in more ways than one and the absolute worst when it comes to prepping for paint.

Unless you have bondo/epoxy patches, do consider the results of Red Max Pro... or similar. Much, much cheaper than paint, good results too!

[conbern]

Thanks for all the advice. I have made notes to keep me reminded of the info that I have gathered. I will surely use the Red Max Pro for the polish, but still want to paint my trailer. I was thinking of using a 2 part epoxy paint, but really could use some advice as to what brand and application system would be best. I don't have spray facilities, but was hoping to find a paint that would work well by using a high density roller for application.

I have been looking on line to find a reliable source of information on prepping the trailer for painting. I'm finding many alternative methods. Anyone have a tried and true method??

I'd appreciate any suggestions,
Thanks

[CindyL]

Lots of people here have painted their campers. If you search using Google search, you will find their discussions and could PM them if their directions are not clear enough.

CindyL

[keekers]

Connie,
I took mine to a local small auto body repair and paint shop since there was way too much oxidation for me to deal with. He sanded, prepped, painted, added side colors to match my Jeep color. Cost $800. Also his guarantee that since he used auto paint the color would remain bright and clear, just maybe wax as you would a car after about 3 years. Two years later and she is still looking good.
Patti

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by conbern

Hi, I live in Ontario in the summer and am looking for an "Egg" group... Anyone know of one in the Barrie area??
.

Here is the thread for the Ontario Egg Meet this year. But its being held in Grafton.

There is another rally being held at the Long Beach Conservation area at Wainfleet.

A map of all the announced 2013 Fiberglass Trailer Meets can be found at Google Maps

[Night Sailor]

I have painted many times using two part epoxy paints. Here are the steps. Use a high quality respirator at all times. You can read up on this at the Interlux web site. Some paint have arsenic in them--Algrip for example. Breath this and you may not wake up tomorrow.

1. Repair and fill any cracks or voids. Removing windows and fixtures is better but you can tape around anything left on.
2. Sand the whole thing using a 6" random orbital sander with 100 grit. Wipe down with recommended solvent. I also use 5" random orbital palm sanders and foam waning blocks.
3. Roll or spray, (spraying is better) 2 coats Interlux 2000E primer. Use white for light colors and gray for dark colors. Sand between coats with 150 grit. With the last coat sand with finer and finer grits all the way to 600 grit or finer. Each finer sanding takes half the time of the prior sanding. It is all in the prep. You do not want and bubbles or voids. The follow on paint is thin and will not fix defects in your prep. Use filler if you have any problem areas you missed earlier and then prime those too.
4. Wipe with lint free cloth and solvent.
5. You can use the tip and roll method with two people to paint it, or preferably, spray three coats of well thinned Interlux Perfection paint. Tip and Roll is actualling Roll and Tip. one lerson rolls vertically and the next person, using the lightest of touch drags the tip of a foam brush horizonatly to pop the bubbles. Thin paint then helps the paint to flatten the drag marks. timing is critical using Tip and Roll. The tipping must happen soon after the dolling. Paint can be thinned with up to 40% of the recommended thinner. Thinner coats turn out better. If you have any runs, sand them out and hit it again. Spray painting works better and faster but requires more prepping. My helper ruined two compasses when spray paint floated overand dried on them.
6. For a contrasting color, you can go on top of a light color with a dark, but the preferred method is to use a dark primer and paint the contrasting color separately, unless you are making a complicated pattern on top of a base coat.
7. Be sure to wax twice a year to protect the paint.

[Mikmay]

The fiberglass meet in long beach is held the second weekend in July .it is about a 2 hour drive from Barrie. We usually have close to a 100 trailers you can look up the bolerama web sight for more info