Dan's 1976 Scamp Frame Off Restoration with Improvements

[Curbfeeler]

With the shape correct and the floor screwed to backing plywood, it's time to start fiberglassing. It's common practice with fiberglass to make a thicker version of your resin by adding loose strands of fiberglass and then filler such as silica, sawdust, or even flour. This concoction is called "peanut butter" due to the consistency of the end product.

Since I need to fill the gap left by the kerf of my blade as well as one de-laminated hole in my floor, I need something thicker than normal resin. I thought about mixing up my own peanut butter, but I'd really like to finish this thing soon, so I decided to just buy a product called bondo glass.

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-...3242372&rt=rud

This will be the product that fills all the "through holes" so that my fiberglass resin won't run all the way through to the garage floor. I will do traditional fiberglass over this.

None of this needs to look good, since it will never been seen. Also weight is not a concern since I have over-built my frame anyway. Just needs to be strong...

[k corbin]

Originally Posted by Curbfeeler

With the shape correct and the floor screwed to backing plywood, it's time to start fiberglassing. It's common practice with fiberglass to make a thicker version of your resin by adding loose strands of fiberglass and then filler such as silica, sawdust, or even flour. This concoction is called "peanut butter" due to the consistency of the end product.

Since I need to fill the gap left by the kerf of my blade as well as one de-laminated hole in my floor, I need something thicker than normal resin. I thought about mixing up my own peanut butter, but I'd really like to finish this thing soon, so I decided to just buy a product called bondo glass.

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-...3242372&rt=rud

This will be the product that fills all the "through holes" so that my fiberglass resin won't run all the way through to the garage floor. I will do traditional fiberglass over this.

None of this needs to look good, since it will never been seen. Also weight is not a concern since I have over-built my frame anyway. Just needs to be strong...

I just use the epoxy putty sticks you knead to mix the components together for patching in those narrow gaps and small bolt and screw holes. Just do a slight countersink at the perimeter on both sides, that helps hold it in place. Put some tape on the opposite side of the hole push the putty in. Works great, there are several versions of these sticks but I have not found a lot of difference in what they say they are made for be it for wood, steel, aluminum, plastic etc. The color differs but they all work great for patching up wood and fiberglass. Once cured it is very strong and hard. I don't overfill it by very much as it takes a while to sand since it cures so firmly.

[Curbfeeler]

Fiberglassing is actually pretty fun. I was able to put down three coats and now feel that the area by the door is more than strong enough. I also patched a few small areas in the back where I had some dry rot in the wood, but they too will be more than adequate now.

[Curbfeeler]

One thing I find really encouraging is that when I put on my door it now fits way better than it ever did before the re-vamp. I've gone down to the CNC and cut a few versions of these plywood doo-hickies that get fiberglassed to the shell, and it's looking pretty promising so far. My recent practice with fiberglass hopefully has my skill level up high enough that I can pull off this next step with ease.

[Curbfeeler]

Been too long since I was able work on the camper. We had flash flooding here in Des Moines, and my house like most houses in the neighborhood was hit.

Funny, though, in the flood cleanup I managed to find my original measurements. I am now able to see exactly where I messed up in cad. I took the 24.75" as an outside dimension and somehow missed the 27". Live and learn.

Hope to be back to working on the camper this week. Not far from finishing at this point.

[Curbfeeler]

Hi guys. Well I'm still not dug out from the great flash flood of 2018, but if I don't work on the Scamp at least a little, I am going to go crazy.

Next step is to fiberglass both bottom corners of the door to the frame. Honestly, it's been so long since I have fiberglassed I am nervous to do such a major step. To get some practice, I will work on the door latch first.

Looks like Bonnie and Clyde's car.

First a layer of Bondo hair. After that dries for about 45 minutes, a light rasping. Then a layer of mat.

Once that is dry I do two layers of cloth. I want this area to be extremely strong.

I've created a couple collage pics to show the steps.

[Curbfeeler]

Once that part of the job is complete, I'll go ahead and start attaching the corner to the frame.

I'll start by painting a light coat of resin on the plywood board.

Don't get to use my metal files often, but this job called for a carriage Bolt. So I got to file a round hole into a square one. Just took a few minutes.

[Curbfeeler]

Left side attached!

Not pretty but gets the job done. Will trim back the excess when things firm up.

[Curbfeeler]

Well, over the past several days I have worked on the camper when I could, and I've made pretty good progress:

-Camper is officially attached to the frame. Currently 7 stainless screws, plus the fiberglass at the corners of the door.
-Camper is out of the garage and in the driveway.
-Huber Advantech lower floor is primed with Bullseye123 and set in place.

Next steps:

-Fiberglass repair/reinforce holes in closet and remaining holes in door jamb.
-Construction adhesive lower floor and set permanently.
-Fiberglass repair tongue side lower door where I'm missing 1/2" of fiberglass due to PO attaching the bunks to the shell.
-Fiberglass repair/reinforce hinges and re-set them at proper spacing.

Will post some progress pics as I go so folks can see what these steps entail.

Dan

[Curbfeeler]

My closet appears to have been riveted in multiple times, and in some cases the fiberglass has crushed or shredded. I decided to reinforce the bad bits with new fiberglass.

All of this will be hidden but since the closet provides support, I need it to be strong.

[Curbfeeler]

My scamp got a brand new door at some point, and the PO moved the hinges. I've decided to reinforce each corner, just in case. Why not?

[Curbfeeler]

Quick note regarding reinforcement of existing fiberglass. I tend not to worry about overhang on my reinforcements. A quick swipe with the hack saw blade, and the excess cuts away like butter, leaving a nice clean edge.

[Curbfeeler]

Hi guys. I have finally reached that point where I am putting things together again inside the Scamp. A good feeling, but not surprisingly there are challenges ahead.

The closet does not line up perfectly with the new shape of the shell. The shell matches the shape of the door, so the closet will have to change its ways or hit the road.

Not sure what I will do yet. I want a screen door, so that may end up covering up the gap anyway. More to come.

[Curbfeeler]

Well, I thought about it but I do not like the idea of trying to cover up a screwup by hiding it behind a screen door frame. Do it right is my motto where this camper is concerned.

The good news is that according to all my measurements, my door opening is the correct shape and the correct size all the way around. Keep in mind that my door never really fit that well before, even before the frame crack. I have a feeling that this has something to do with the door being brand new in 2015 and the shell being a 1976. I've read about some things changing after a fire at the factory; maybe the lower fit of the door is one of those things?

Anyway, I started in with the hacksaw last night, removing the lip that does not want to fit. I'll be covering the frame's lip with wax paper and building up the fiberglass to make a perfect fit. This will be the most challenging fiberglass task I've taken on to-date, but I'm stoked for it. It's fun stuff to work with.

[Curbfeeler]

Okay, here is my prep work for extending the lip of the closet to match the new contour of the door opening.

I'm using an Amazon box and some duct tape and a pair of scissors. First I put the box against the door opening and traced the contour. I added reference marks on the closet and box. Then I cut this contour into the box with my scissors.

Next I placed the box inside the closet and taped it in place, using my reference marks.

Lastly I made a new line on the cardboard as a reference as to where the closet goes. I don't plan to fiberglass this in place, but if the cardboard falls off the closet, I don't want to have to reinstall the closet to line it back up.

By the way, I did the entire cut by hand with a hack saw blade. I sanded by hand with a 40 grit disc. Nothing automated, as I don't want to kick up major dust. I am also wearing a respirator, as I pretty much do all the time when cutting or sanding, etc. Also I am blowing a fan with a furnace filter away to pick up ambient dust. I don't like to take chances with my lungs!

More to come...

[Curbfeeler]

I used cardboard, duct tape, painter tape, wax paper, and release film from double-sided tape to make a form from the cardboard I'd cut in the previous post.

I use some contact paper to plan out my pieces, but could have used an old rag or plain white paper as well.

I'm going for a very thin fiberglass layer here. Just three pieces here and not much overlap. I will go thicker on the back side, and I certainly wont worry about strength, since the door opening side does not flex at all.

I really just want the shape, which I think this accomplishes nicely.

[Curbfeeler]

I'm very happy with the way the closet extension/lip came out. The last pic shows the excess trimmed with a hacksaw blade. I think once it's painted you won't be able to tell there was work done.

[rbryan]

Very nice work. Love it when someone just jumps in and uses some common sense to tackle whatever comes up.

[Curbfeeler]

Just to catch the thread up, after my closet work I decided to have my mechanic friend help me with brakes and bearings, then we installed the axles.

Then I finished off a can of black rustoleum oil based for the bottom of the floor.

[Curbfeeler]

Next I cut up an old bed frame i found on the curb and welded up the entry.