Scamp water heater: upgrade to gas/electric help

[Lorrie]

I have to replace the water heater in our 19' Scamp. I want to change from gas-only to gas/electric. If someone has done this, I would appreciate some photos showing where they put the switch panel and how they ran the 110 wiring.

Thanks!

[ArizScamp]

Hi Lorrie and John,

I'm interested to see what others share about their experience, too. Getting up early in the AM to light off the heater isn't the best way to start the day ... especially on those cold mornings.

I've checked prices for the remote start AC/LP replacement heaters and have seen where switches are installed. I believe that there's a cable way under the dinette against the back of the trailer. I am planning to put the switches next to the sink water switch (I've seen pictures elsewhere with this arrangement).

On a side note, I just got my Camping World catalog and they are advertising $59 installation for anything they sell and the combo heater is listed at $800 and change (I didn't read the fine print yet).

Best,

Dave & Kc
2011 19' Scamp Deluxe

[Casita Greg]

Originally Posted by ArizScamp

On a side note, I just got my Camping World catalog and they are advertising $59 installation for anything they sell and the combo heater is listed at $800 and change (I didn't read the fine print yet).
Best,
Dave & Kc
2011 19' Scamp Deluxe

Sorry, but I wouldn't have Camping World install anything. In fact, I wouldn't even let one of their supposed "RV Techs" inside my trailer. Go right ahead if you want a totally half-assed slip-shod installation performed by minimum wage untrained high school drop-outs who don't know squat about anything, least of all RV's and trailers.

[Lorrie]

Yikes, $800 is pretty high...the GC6AA-10E Atwood is $455 on Amazon.

I think I have it all figured out now with the wiring...still trying to decide where to put the switch. I'm worried about it getting bumped if it's by the water pump switch. I'm thinking of putting inside the sink cabinet.

[Casita Greg]

Originally Posted by Lorrie

Yikes, $800 is pretty high...the GC6AA-10E Atwood is $455 on Amazon.

I think I have it all figured out now with the wiring...still trying to decide where to put the switch. I'm worried about it getting bumped if it's by the water pump switch. I'm thinking of putting inside the sink cabinet.

I didn't like having to go outside to turn the water heater on, and that switch installed on the heater itself couldn't have been mounted in a more awkward and hard to get to location, so I just leave that one on, and I installed another switch inside under the side dinette. It also has a pilot light on it which shows at a glance whether it is energized or not.

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by Lorrie

Yikes, $800 is pretty high...the GC6AA-10E Atwood is $455 on Amazon.

I think I have it all figured out now with the wiring...still trying to decide where to put the switch. I'm worried about it getting bumped if it's by the water pump switch. I'm thinking of putting inside the sink cabinet.

Use a WP plate with a flip cover or a key switch
Our WH switch has a pilot light so we can tell at a glance if the heater is on or off
We really like our dual fuel water heater though to be honest in ten years we have never ran it on propane

[floyd]

I too liked the idea, but when I bought my camper it was not offered.
After a short while I discovered that not only was the gas only pilot light version simpler and more reliable, it also did not measurably use more fuel.
The pilot light keeps the water hot enough that the the heater seldom cycles unless water is used. Plus the tank is so well insulated that you can take a hot shower at least a full day after shutting off the gas even in mild to cool weather.
My conclusion is that you could find many more satisfying things to spend your money on.

[Lorrie]

Thanks to those who offered ideas about where to place the switch.

[Lloyd (aka Santa) Coltman]

I don't know what brand of Power center the Scamp has, but our ('Stickie') trailer came with a WFCO 8900 series, in which the converter and the electric water heater shared a breaker, so using the breaker as a switch wouldn't work. The factory switch (outside, inside heater door) was also a 'Non-starter'. The Power Center had two spare breaker positions, so I installed a standard in-line household light switch (white) in the cover panel, leaving the factory switch "On'. Because the switch is behind a door it won't get bumped, yet it's convenient enough.

[Joe MacDonald]

i bought a new tank from ebay, just the tank itself with an electric element- no burner assembly. cost under $200. I re-used my burner assembly and ran a wire for the electric right to my power center where i had a spare breaker. it is a little time consuming to change out the tank only, but well worth the saved money in my opinion

Joe