Scamp axle replacement

[Dave in Asheville]

I have a new to me 2010 Scamp 13 deluxe without brakes. I would like to add brakes. The existing axle (welded on) seems to have the required mounting plates immediately behind the wheels. However, I don't believe the previous owner ever elevated the camper during extensive non-use periods to relieve pressure on the axle. I don't want to waste time/money adding brakes if the axle is at or near the end of it's life. I'd rather just replace the axle with a new axle/brake assembly. How do I tell if the existing axle needs replacement?

Thanks for your input!

[gordon2]

Eight years? You should be OK. Jack up the frame near the axle one side at a time and see if the wheel drops a few inches.

I guess you need 7 inch brakes. (If you need 10 inch and are in the Statesville NC area I could give you a working set for free).

Unless you have reasons to suspect an axle problem I would just get the brake assemblies, add them when you do the off-season bearing repack, (Check the condition of the drum too.) Then add the needed wiring and controller.. Good to go.

This might be what you need:
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Bra.../AKEBRK-2.html
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...ine/BRKH7.html

[floyd]

Do the brakes, its easy and reasonably priced... $188 for this one.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Add-Electri...S!-1:rk:7:pf:0

[Dave in Asheville]

Thanks for the input! As soon as it stops raining I'll check out the amount of "drop" in the wheels/axle.

[Dave in Asheville]

Thanks for the information! This would be a much easier/cheaper solution than replacing the axle.

[mary and bob]

I had a problem with the Axletech (AKE) brake assemblies from etrailer. A magnet failure possibly, in just a couple months and less than 1000 miles. I won't buy them again, I prefer the Dexters that Floyd showed.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by mary and bob

I had a problem with the Axletech (AKE) brake assemblies from etrailer. A magnet failure possibly, in just a couple months and less than 1000 miles. I won't buy them again, I prefer the Dexters that Floyd showed.

Well thats one vote against... and

"Average Customer Rating: 4.8 out of 5 stars (669 Customer Reviews)"

Unless of course you think the reviews are fixed.

But it is true that the Dexter's reviews are one tenth of one star better....

"Average Customer Rating: 4.9 out of 5 stars (992 Customer Reviews)"

eTrailer's brake assemblies (RH and LH) are $81.76 and Dexter's are $120.38. That price diferential might get closer once the Chinese Tarrif's kick in.

By the way, you said "A magnet failure possibly" but the magnets are easy to check. Did you every do a post-mortem and verify the problem?

[mary and bob]

Gordon; I did not do any follow up testing. The brake controller in our son's car indicated a fault which I traced to the right brake. Since he is 300 miles away I just bought another assembly and swapped them out and the problem went away so I was done with it. etrailer didn't seem to want to make it good so I just wrote it off as a defective part and forgot about it. However I did replace the assembly with another of the same brand and no more problems so ???

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by mary and bob

Gordon; I did not do any follow up testing. The brake controller in our son's car indicated a fault which I traced to the right brake. Since he is 300 miles away I just bought another assembly and swapped them out and the problem went away so I was done with it. etrailer didn't seem to want to make it good so I just wrote it off as a defective part and forgot about it. However I did replace the assembly with another of the same brand and no more problems so ???

So likely a fault in the wiring at the brake, or a problem with the electro-magnet. Could be installation error but more likely a manufacturing defect. If it was an installation error it should have been pretty apparent to the person doing the repair.

[mary and bob]

Originally Posted by gordon2

So likely a fault in the wiring at the brake, or a problem with the electro-magnet. Could be installation error but more likely a manufacturing defect. If it was an installation error it should have been pretty apparent to the person doing the repair.

I did the original installation and the failure was within a couple months. I also did the replacement, saw no obvious problem, and since I was doing the replacement in our son's yard with a swarm of mosquitos around me I was not spending a lot of time on diagnosis. Swapped parts, problem gone, off part in the trash. Apparently just my luck to get a defective part in the beginning.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by mary and bob

.. Apparently just my luck to get a defective part in the beginning.

Yup.. and while we can't conclude much from a single event, I am with you in that I also would not buy them again after that.

[Dave in Asheville]

Thanks for the advice everyone! I'm looking to buy a new TV this winter, likely a RAV4 Adventure (towing capacity rated at 3500#). Do you have any advice on the best brake controller to install?

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by Dave in Asheville

Thanks for the advice everyone! I'm looking to buy a new TV this winter, likely a RAV4 Adventure (towing capacity rated at 3500#). Do you have any advice on the best brake controller to install?

Thats easy. Tekonsha Prodigy P2 or P3

[Dave in Asheville]

Gordon, Thanks for the information on the brake controller also. It's stopped raining so I went out and measured the drop in the axle. The axle appears to drop one inch between "no load" on the axle and full weight bearing contact with the ground. With full ground contact the tires have about 4 1/2" clearance to the top of the wheelwell. It's 38 degrees out so don't know how much difference that makes. Axle still okay?

[Stephen_Albers]

Here are two other thoughts. Manufacturers routinely lie about the build weight. Weigh your trailer, add in tankage and storage weight, then check to see if you are exceeding the maximum limit set by the axle manufacturer. You probably are.

There is a good reason to upgrade your axle to one with more load carrying capability. Another one is to get rid of the crap open bearings that need regular service costing big bucks with sealed bearings that are maintenance-free for 100,000 miles.

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by Stephen_Albers

Here are two other thoughts. Manufacturers routinely lie about the build weight. Weigh your trailer, add in tankage and storage weight, then check to see if you are exceeding the maximum limit set by the axle manufacturer. You probably are.

Vintage Scamps came with a 1200# axle- very underrated indeed. Late model Scamps have a 2200# axle, which is more than sufficient unless there have been substantial and heavy owner modifications. I don't know when they made the switch, a couple of decades ago I'd guess, so the OP is fine on that count.

The heaviest loaded Scamp 13's in the Trailer Weights database weigh in around 2000#, with over 200# of that on the hitch, so less than 1800# on a 2200# axle. Around 1600# axle weight is more typical.

Too high an axle rating and you get a bouncy ride. My lightly optioned Scamp rides much better when loaded for a trip.

[Doctor Harold]

Originally Posted by floyd

Do the brakes, its easy and reasonably priced... $188 for this one.[/URL]

Wouldn't you need to have an axle that already has flanges to bolt the assemblies to?

Edit: Oh, I didn't see that the PO said he has the flanges. Sorry.