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07-26-2018, 11:07 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: Scamp 13 D
Massachusetts
Posts: 118
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New Scamp 13D gets the McGiver treatment
First order when we brought her home last October was to sand, prime, & 4 coats of black semigloss polyurethane on everything underneath including the A frame & rear bumper. All protruding fasteners were cut off & all clips & screws were switched for stainless. 2 double frame grounds were added in 2 locations, and the interior of the frame rails were coated with frame wax rustproofing. As you're probably guessing we're gonna keep her for a bit + the Winters here in Mass aren't very kind to our Toys....
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07-26-2018, 11:19 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: Scamp 13 D
Massachusetts
Posts: 118
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Propex Heater
Next up was the Propex Heater which I Fabbed a heat exchanger for - had to pre stress the heater with the exchanger attached prior to install as these units are very sensitive to altering their intake & exhaust combustion circuit.
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07-26-2018, 11:35 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: Scamp 13 D
Massachusetts
Posts: 118
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Propex Heater
The heater was mounted in the bottom of the front closet (no real useable room lost) + even though fairly quiet is not next to our heads while sleeping like the factory units. A plywood plate was installed on top after the duct for heated air (white pipe) was insulated. Prior to connecting the heat exchanger, the exhaust from combustion to the outside was 300° - with the exchanger attached it dropped to 150°... Had to squirrel the external intake & exhaust ducts around a bit, then added critter proofing to them. Easily holds the Scamp @ 68° @ 0° outside with no window insulation.
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07-26-2018, 12:02 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: Scamp 13 D
Massachusetts
Posts: 118
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14" Tires
Rotated the torsion axle 15° (gussets & welding reqd) to gain 1.5" lift clearance (14s are 1" taller - with the lift was very tight on the door side @ full flex - 1" clearance) Total lift was 2.5" which gives a bit better departure angle on the tail end for the Bal jacks & the rear carrier.
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07-26-2018, 12:18 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: Scamp 13 D
Massachusetts
Posts: 118
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Bal Jacks & rear carrier/bike rack
Fabbed up a transverse frame member with tabs to mount the Bal jacks on + a box strut to mount a 2" receiver on.
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07-26-2018, 12:31 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: Scamp 13 D
Massachusetts
Posts: 118
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Bal Jacks
Added some additional struts after installing the cross member to beef the frame up a bit - Bal's 5000# jacks have a 19" lift that completely unloads the torsion axle while camping or during prolonged storage.
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07-26-2018, 12:42 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: Scamp 13 D
Massachusetts
Posts: 118
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Bike Carrier, Rear Gear Carrier
Found a nice lightweight aluminum tig welded carrier, and ordered Yakima's RV bike rack which I chopped up a bit. The whole assembly comes off & on in 5 minutes. Can be removed & installed on the tow vehicle if we need to bring the bikes somewhere w/out the trailer.
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07-26-2018, 01:02 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: Scamp 13 D
Massachusetts
Posts: 118
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Carrier
Sorry for the crazy orientation of the pics Guys - if anyone knows how to turn them please advise.... Unfortunately the SCAMP'S axle is only rated @ 2200# so we have to watch the weight on the tail - we keep the spare in the TV now & when the bikes are on the back we load up the bathroom a bit. We also found a rogue sized 100 watt solar panel that fit incredibly well in the carrier - have 2 -10' 8ga extension cords for it so we can put it out in the sun (making an adjustable stand for it soon & will post pics)
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07-26-2018, 01:45 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: Scamp 13 D
Massachusetts
Posts: 118
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3 Way Fridge
Did the customary fan upgrade to the fridge though added some tweaks; Previously the fridge was cooking the silverware drawer & the associated area. It also could only hold 40° below ambient. I pulled the fridge, added 2" polyisocyanate sheet foam to the right side, 1.5" to the left, & 1+" to the top. Above the condenser fins I added arced aluminum flashing w/ insulation behind it, boxed in the heating tower w/ same w/ additional insulation, partitioned the tower w/ same to further keep it's heat from the left side of the unit, cowled the bottom of the fins & added 2 tiny muffin fans (together only .1 amp draw/hr) & connected them to a 128° thermoswitch mounted on tower's output. 1st test was @ Tanglewood for James Taylor July 4th concert - it was 93 inside the Scamp & the fridge held a solid 38°. The fans are almost imperceptible inside & a tiny whine outside - you actually don't need much airflow if you can direct it. Also added some critter screens anchored w/ stainless wire to the vent covers....
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07-26-2018, 02:02 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: Scamp 13 D
Massachusetts
Posts: 118
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Fridge continued...
If you look @ the vent cover pic, notice I cut out all the horizontal dividers hoping it would help w/ airflow. Yet to install are 2 teeny centrifugal blowers (.06 amps/hr together) inside the fridge. They'll be attached to the ceiling to keep the evaporator & bottom of the fridge from icing up which happened that week at the concert - a concert I had waited 60 years to see (6th row center seats) he was great + fireworks after the show, & even signed Jackie's ticket....
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07-26-2018, 02:12 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: Z
Trailer: Sasquatch
Montana
Posts: 2,556
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I like what you're doing!
This may pull you off-topic so feel free answer over PM, but did your fridge mods basically close off the upper fins to all air other than what is being blown by the fans? That aluminum sheet seems to block everything except the holes for the fans. Then you boxed in and insulated around the chimney?
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07-26-2018, 02:51 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Trailer: 93 Burro 17 ft
Posts: 6,024
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Pretty amazing work. Looks good. I would just advise that you weigh your trailer's tongue with a bathroom scale (while loaded, with bikes on the back and all) and then weigh the whole trailer (at a gravel pit or CAT scale) to make sure you have 10% of total trailer weight on the hitch. This should ensure a sway-free tow experience.
Pic orientation is a matter of saving to your computer, rotating them in your photos folder, then uploading. Phones are particularly notorious for affecting rotation, if that's what you used for your photos.
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07-26-2018, 02:51 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: Scamp 13 D
Massachusetts
Posts: 118
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Zach - not off topic at all & actually pertinent to anyone viewing - I only shrouded the lower 1/5 of the fins given the possibility of the fans failing & the condenser unit possibly overheating due to loss of airflow. Unlike my Propex Heater, Dometic doesn't have an overheat fail shutdown. I would caution others reading this about my set up - thank you Z... I did a number of benchmark tests with my laser temp gauge before & then after Fab & simulated a fan fail around 80° ambient outside & was ok with the results.
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07-26-2018, 03:06 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: Scamp 13 D
Massachusetts
Posts: 118
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Mike you nailed it - 1st time I've ever posted from my phone HaHa! I have a 600# scale for the tongue though haven't hit the scales yet (soon) For our Maiden voyage this spring from near Cape Cod to Shenandoah, Skyline Drive to Lake Moomaw in SW Virginee, to Charleston & back I started w/ 180 on the T, when she started getting a little squirrely on me around 70/75 we tossed some gear in the shower - was good up to 80+ at that point...
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07-26-2018, 03:18 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: Scamp 13 D
Massachusetts
Posts: 118
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We tow with a 2017 Outback with the 3.6 - I throw 5 more # in the rear tires when we tow & with the electric brakes (which we had to tweak also) & that flat 6 had no problems w/ the switchbacks up & down @ Skyline Drive. BTW that's am 8# Rainy @ lake Moomaw - make the yummy sound everybody!
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07-26-2018, 03:29 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Name: David
Trailer: 2013 Scamp 13 S1 BB
IL
Posts: 281
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Great refrigerator mods, i am planning on doing something very similar. I see that you also added a metal cover and insulation to the whole flue? Can you snap a picture of what it looks like near the actually burner area?
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07-26-2018, 04:02 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: Scamp 13 D
Massachusetts
Posts: 118
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Gom- the insulation on the tower 1)Limits heat loss allowing a possible lower setting on the thermostat. 2)Isolates the heat from the condenser side of the unit. I have yet to address the lower half of the tower as I am easily distracted....so much to do, so little time! Will get tuit one of these days I'm sure.
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07-26-2018, 04:07 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Name: David
Trailer: 2013 Scamp 13 S1 BB
IL
Posts: 281
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ACHINBAC
Gom- the insulation on the tower 1)Limits heat loss allowing a possible lower setting on the thermostat. 2)Isolates the heat from the condenser side of the unit. I have yet to address the lower half of the tower as I am easily distracted....so much to do, so little time! Will get tuit one of these days I'm sure.
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Thank you sir. I sure know the feeling, we have a 13 standard and I have a list of ideas a mile long but time is short!
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07-26-2018, 05:01 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: Scamp 13 D
Massachusetts
Posts: 118
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Last project post for the night - chopped down new septic pipes & holders to fit under the Scamp. There's a longitudinal frame member that limited the length of the holders to less than 3' to keep them at the same elevation as the axle. Moved the factory stone guard from the front after re-bending it & installed it as a guard for the holders.
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07-27-2018, 08:41 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Name: Z
Trailer: Sasquatch
Montana
Posts: 2,556
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Thanks for the clarification. I may use some of those ideas.
Really nice work.
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