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09-16-2008, 01:45 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2009 13 ft Trillium (USA)
Posts: 180
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Quote:
My 13ft. Scamp fits in a 7" foot garage. I removed a piece of trim from the garage opening and let enough air out of the tires to sneek it in.
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Mr. Phil, but what if your 13ft. Scamp had an AC on top,,,,would you still get it in or would you need to take an extra 9-12 inches off?
Lloyd
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09-16-2008, 04:16 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1975 13 ft Trillium
Posts: 2,535
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Lloyd, help me out a little on this, as I'm a little confused....
Your trailer is 7'4" AND has an a/c on the roof, OR is the 7'4" the height WITH a/c on the roof?
IF you have a 7'4" high trailer and are trying to fit it through a 6'11" opening thats only a difference of 5 inches (Canadian speaking, LOL) What size wheels are you using 13's or 14's? There is 1/2" difference in height there. Soft wall tires or 6 plys? You can loose some inches there by deflating the tires (even IF you have to loose ALL the air). If you do totally deflate the tires be sure to move the trailer very slowly and don't try to turn it (with no air in the tires) as this will cause the tires bead to break and will not be able to properly re-inflate them.
If ALL else fails and you REALLY need to get it in that garage, connect it back up to your tow vehicle, back CAREFULLY toward the garage door (so it lines up JUST RIGHT) then pull forward carefully about 10 feet.
Put the tow vehicle into reverse gear and just FLOOR IT!!!
NO!!! No!! no!.....I'm only joshing with you on the reverse gear move Lloyd!!!
Reconstructing the garage door opening seems a little brutal unless you can afford major surgery onit.
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09-16-2008, 04:59 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2009 13 ft Trillium (USA)
Posts: 180
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Doug, had a good laugh there!! Seriously, the Trill is 7"4" without the AC. I haven't checked but it must 9-12 in. high, the AC that is. All that being said I really think I may need to alter the garage. It may end up being cheaper than storing it somewhere.
Thanks for thinking for me....
Lloyd
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09-16-2008, 05:17 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1974 Trillium 13 ft
Posts: 495
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Quote:
Hi: Doug...How bout a trip to the junkyard for a pair of donut spares of the correct bolt pattern and size??? Mucho savings for that short trip into the garage!!!
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I like that idea too... Doug let us know if this works, will ya?
I just can't convince myself to reuse that contraption I made last year using fridge casters.
__________________
Driving on parkways and parking in driveways.
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09-16-2008, 09:20 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1975 13 ft Trillium
Posts: 2,535
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Yesterday I tried removing the wheels (these were the custom wheels that HAD to come off for storage anyhow). I used one jack on the rear bumper and lifted the Egg up high enuff to get both wheels off. This left the trailer swaying somewhat as the jack was NOT eggsackerly centered under the rear bumper. None the less, I removed both wheels and tried positioning the car dolleys under either side of the axle. It seemed no matter how/which way I placed them, it looked like they would NOT work right under the load exerted by the trailer. The axle either had to rest on one of the two (supporting) steel rods or sat directly onto the raised areas over the coaster wheels. Neither looked like it was going to be too successful. I tried lowering the trailer (ever so slowly) down, but it was becoming apparent that THIS idea wasn't going to succeed. I did manage to re n re the custom mags with the mazda truck rims with matching tires on it. I also measured the sidewall height of the Mazda rims which are same diameter as the custom rims and the tires are also part of the matched set (4tires) of the 6 plys on the custom rims. The sidewall height is 4 n 1/2 inches. SO....IF I can find some 13" sacraficial rims, the 1/2" difference in height between the 13's and 14's combined with not having the tires mounted SHOULD give me a clearance of about 5 inches. Thus, 7'4" minus 5" = 6'11" in height (again this is Canadian, LOL!!) which just MIGHT clear some garage door openings in townhouses we are scoping out!!!
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09-16-2008, 11:35 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 3,072
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For some reason that I can't recall right now, I went with the bare 12" wheels instead of bare 13" wheels (might be I couldn't find any 13" after calling some wrecking yards).
I did notice while watching a neighbor put a spare on his Mini Cooper that the spare had several different bolt-hole drillings so it was a 'one size fitz all' wheel, but I don't recall the diameter.
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09-17-2008, 09:13 AM
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#27
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1975 13 ft Trillium
Posts: 2,535
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The wheels that came with our Egg when we adopted it were dual pattern 14's as well, Dorf/G.M.
Can't for the life of me figure out why someone would need a dual bolt pattern wheel like that UNLESS their tow vehicle was a G.M. of some sort!!!
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09-17-2008, 11:54 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 3,072
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There may be a Euro wheel pattern that matches the other bolt set; Cooper is German and Dorf is a German word.
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09-18-2008, 02:09 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1975 13 ft Trillium
Posts: 2,535
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I chatted with the 'Rubber Dood' yesterday and he loaned me a teeny tiny 8" wheel to trial fit. It wouldn't fit to the hub because the wheels inside was a little less than 6" in diameter (6" is the diameter of my hub). We started looking at 12 inch wheels and then he found that he has access to 10"ers as well. These rims are wide, like a golf cart??? When the time comes, I'll see if I can borrow one to trial fit it and if it fits O.K, I'll buy a pair and mount them without rubber. Who knows, MAYBE there is a super low profile tire out there for these things too, like a 'low rider' rim n rubber??
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09-18-2008, 07:42 PM
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#30
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Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 62
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Hello,
I saw the good ideas of Kevin E, Daniel V. and Pete Dumbleton in the Garage Storage post linked by Donna D .
The suggestion was to make discs out of 3/4 inch plywood (1 inch would look really cool albeit a little more expensive) just big enough to clear any dragging parts off of the ground.
The narrow discs and their narrow individual tracks would allow for easy rolling and manuevering, roll forward, roll back and do it again until satisfied.
One of the drawbacks would be having to pay to get those discs cut out and sanded smooth and round for those without the equipment to do so. Still a great idea, maybe make up a bunch of 'em out of that 4x8.
Mitchell
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09-18-2008, 09:10 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1975 13 ft Trillium
Posts: 2,535
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Quote:
Hello,
I saw the good ideas of Kevin E, Daniel V. and Pete Dumbleton in the Garage Storage post linked by Donna D .
The suggestion was to make discs out of 3/4 inch plywood (1 inch would look really cool albeit a little more expensive) just big enough to clear any dragging parts off of the ground.
The narrow discs and their narrow individual tracks would allow for easy rolling and manuevering, roll forward, roll back and do it again until satisfied.
One of the drawbacks would be having to pay to get those discs cut out and sanded smooth and round for those without the equipment to do so. Still a great idea, maybe make up a bunch of 'em out of that 4x8.
Mitchell
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<span style="font-size:24pt;line-height:100%"> BINGO !!!!</span> Tamarrah I'm gettin offa this hill encore, un fois an making another 'city' run.
First place is gunna be to the bicycle shop to check on various sizes of rubber tires that are available, then (with these stats in hand and on the way back up the mountain pass), I'll stop at the local 'smithey' and see what the cost would be to have two of these 'metal' discs cut to (whatever) size and drilled to 5 on 4 3/4 bolt pattern (Ford/Dodge pattern??) with tapered bolt holes and a hole for the hub large enough to fit over the bearing assembly on the hubs. Total price CAN'T be more than $35 each side and MAYBE I can getter dun in Polished Aluminuminimim or Stainless ...summin real purdy like!!! Stretch the aforementioned rubber tire over the cut metal disc (to make smoother/quieter moves) and Bob's agunna be my Uncle (again)!!!
Does this sound 'do-able', what say ya'll???
The major concern I have with this whole proceedure is the lowering of the trailer back down onto these smaller wheels/disks. I need to find a way to raise/lower the whole rear of the trailer at once, NOT side to side. A single hydrolic jack placed in the middle of the rear end leaves the whole trailer teetering precariously from side to side!! Also, I'm concerned that the extreem angle generated by this 'movement' could cause the glass body to burst out in even more stress cracks than it already has.
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09-18-2008, 09:53 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1974 Trillium 13 ft
Posts: 495
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Doug, I'm curious as to why you can't just raise one side at a time and lower it back onto the smaller wheel.
Here's another one... How about making a pair of Wooden Egg Clogs by cutting two circles out of a piece of solid 2"x12" ? Drill all the right holes in the right places... maybe some big sunken washers for the bolts... and get rollin'.
__________________
Driving on parkways and parking in driveways.
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09-18-2008, 10:14 PM
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#33
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Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 62
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Hello,
I am optimistic that the problem is almost solved, at least for some.
Make two of those plywood levelling steps.
Raise one side, take off the wheel, replace with disc, and lower down on to the plywood steps.
Now raise the other side, take off the tire, replace with disc, and lower on to the 2nd plywood steps.
Now roll backwards down the steps and in to the garage. Oh yeah, start far enough away from the garage portal to allow for getting completely off of the steps prior to the rear of the trailer entering the garage.
The step units can be made as tall, long and with as many graduations as one might deem safe considering the circumstances.
Good luck with the project.
I would like to read about how it works.
Mitchell
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09-19-2008, 09:10 AM
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#34
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1975 13 ft Trillium
Posts: 2,535
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Quote:
Doug, I'm curious as to why you can't just raise one side at a time and lower it back onto the smaller wheel.
Here's another one... How about making a pair of Wooden Egg Clogs by cutting two circles out of a piece of solid 2"x12" ? Drill all the right holes in the right places... maybe some big sunken washers for the bolts... and get rollin'.
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Daniel, when I last had the egg raised from the rear and started to lower it to one side, I panicked when I saw the angle the trailer was leaning on and 'aborted the mission'! I'm looking for a more permamant solution than wood. Wood has a tendency to chip/crack/warp, etc. I'd like to 'do' this once and not need to have to do it again and the metal (especially a polished piece) would just look better sittin there in my (new to me when we move) garage. Herein is also why we aren't in a huge rush to do this because we don't (yet) know the door dimensions of the garage in the T/H we MAY move into.
....maybe I should look into removing that A/C unit on the roof, LOL!!
SORRY to have Hi Jacked this thread!!!
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09-29-2008, 03:28 AM
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#35
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2009 Trillium 13 ft ('Homelet') / 2000 Subaru Outback
Posts: 2,222
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Quote:
Hello,
I saw the good ideas of Kevin E, Daniel V. and Pete Dumbleton in the Garage Storage post linked by Donna D .
The suggestion was to make discs out of 3/4 inch plywood (1 inch would look really cool albeit a little more expensive) just big enough to clear any dragging parts off of the ground.
The narrow discs and their narrow individual tracks would allow for easy rolling and manuevering, roll forward, roll back and do it again until satisfied.
One of the drawbacks would be having to pay to get those discs cut out and sanded smooth and round for those without the equipment to do so. Still a great idea, maybe make up a bunch of 'em out of that 4x8.
Mitchell
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A clue to FREE plywood. Just go to your nearest area where they are building new houses and ask the carpenters for a couple of SINK CUT OUTS! You should be able to make your "wheels" from these.
__________________
A charter member of the Buffalo Plaid Brigade!
Whether you think you can or think you can't, you're right.
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09-30-2008, 06:11 PM
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#36
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2009 Trillium 13 ft ('Homelet') / 2000 Subaru Outback
Posts: 2,222
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Here is another "out of the box" idea: Just use two 4x4's.
On the bottom, place your casters.
In the middle of the back, cut out for the bearing and make holes for the bolt pattern. Position as required to get the desired clearance.
To attach, you could countersink the holes for the lug nuts or use long nuts so that you can use a bolt and washer.
CAUTION! Remember that the lugs are probably ASME threads which means fine thread.
Voila! Some thing you can make at home with your hand tools, no eggspensive, eggotic steel angle irons.
I may make this one myself!
__________________
A charter member of the Buffalo Plaid Brigade!
Whether you think you can or think you can't, you're right.
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09-30-2008, 06:34 PM
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#37
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1974 Trillium 13 ft
Posts: 495
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Good thinking, Roger -
I'm thinking of something similar, but I figure if I'm going to be using casters, I might as well put those home-made dollies up against the axle under the trailer near the hubs, adding wood as necessary for height adjustment, and perhaps cutting out a groove for the axle to make it more stable, and stop bothering with the hubs altogether.
__________________
Driving on parkways and parking in driveways.
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09-30-2008, 10:16 PM
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#38
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2009 Trillium 13 ft ('Homelet') / 2000 Subaru Outback
Posts: 2,222
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Quote:
Good thinking, Roger -
I'm thinking of something similar, but I figure if I'm going to be using casters, I might as well put those home-made dollies up against the axle under the trailer near the hubs, adding wood as necessary for height adjustment, and perhaps cutting out a groove for the axle to make it more stable, and stop bothering with the hubs altogether.
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Actually I thought of putting a couple of these directly on the frame:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1NVN9
But then it occurred to me: When you take the load off the axle, the wheel mounts/drum brakes will now come down who knows how far?
I decided it would be easier to just mount where the wheels mount to avoid this problem.
__________________
A charter member of the Buffalo Plaid Brigade!
Whether you think you can or think you can't, you're right.
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09-30-2008, 10:42 PM
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#39
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2009 Trillium 13 ft ('Homelet') / 2000 Subaru Outback
Posts: 2,222
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Egads! There are TWO threads dealing with this topic and I am posting to both!
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/index.ph...29146&st=30
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Actually one could make cutouts in the ends of the 4x4 and put a pair of these in there
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1NWT7
Notice the cheap price. Of course you would have to provide a 1/2" bolt for an axle.
Another aha! One could fit a sheet metal brace or two to strengthen the center section.
At least would need washers in the countersunk holes to transfer the stress.
__________________
A charter member of the Buffalo Plaid Brigade!
Whether you think you can or think you can't, you're right.
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08-02-2009, 07:54 AM
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#40
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Member
Trailer: 13 ft 2000 Scamp
Posts: 61
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OK, I know this has been extensively covered and I have read all of the posts. I have just purchased my 13 ft Scamp and I also need to get it in the garage due to subdivision restrictons. The plywood disc seems to be a great idea, just worried about amount of stress put on glass when lowering and raising to put these on. Also the idead of a smaller rim seems to fit the ticket nicely and roll in on just rims without tires. I only need to lower about three inches to clear my two roof vents. Where can one find these smaller rims with same center cut out and bolt pattern?
Thanks
Steve
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