Replacement Machine Screws for 13 Foot boler

[Alex Adams]

I have discovered that although the wood is not rotted, some of the original screws that hold the seats (front and dinette) to the pieces of wood fiber-glassed to the shell have rotted away. The Boler I have was made in Canada so all of the hardware is metric. I took a good screw to the hardware store and it looks like an 8 gauge screw is too small and a 10 gauge is too big. There are no 9 gauge screws available. Has anyone replaced the metric with standard Stainless screws? If you have replaced them, what size replacement did you use? If it was bigger than original what, if anything, did you have to do for it to work? I am really worried that I may split the wood if I use a larger screw and am hoping someone can allay my fear or tell me how to avoid splitting the wood.

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by Alex Adams

I have discovered that although the wood is not rotted, some of the original screws that hold the seats (front and dinette) to the pieces of wood fiber-glassed to the shell have rotted away. The Boler I have was made in Canada so all of the hardware is metric. I took a good screw to the hardware store and it looks like an 8 gauge screw is too small and a 10 gauge is too big. There are no 9 gauge screws available. Has anyone replaced the metric with standard Stainless screws? If you have replaced them, what size replacement did you use? If it was bigger than original what, if anything, did you have to do for it to work? I am really worried that I may split the wood if I use a larger screw and am hoping someone can allay my fear or tell me how to avoid splitting the wood.

Yes I have. I simply went to the larger size. Use sheet metal screws NOT wood screws. To keep then in and tight I put some glue or silicon on them at installation.

[Alex Adams]

Byron, what did you have to do as far as prep work? I assume you drilled out the hole in the fiberglass but did you have to do anything to the wood you were screwing into? Any issue with splitting?

[Raz]

One option is to drill the holes larger. Fill with a dowel. Now use what ever screw you wish. The only issue with this is finding a dowel. Many hardware store dowels come from China. As such a 1/4" lablled dowel could be 6 mm putting you back where you started. Nothing's ever easy.

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by Alex Adams

Byron, what did you have to do as far as prep work? I assume you drilled out the hole in the fiberglass but did you have to do anything to the wood you were screwing into? Any issue with splitting?

I didn't have to do anything except add the glue or silicone. I would have drilled out the fiberglass holes if need be, being careful not to go very deep. I the bigger screws to get a hold of much wood as possible.

[Sturmey]

I went to the local Hardware store and found screws that matched what I needed. (In my case, Peavy Mart) To repair the holes I carved some old pallet boards (hardwood) and set them in place with fibreglass resin.



After trimming and sanding I drilled to match the new screws. Solid like new. (well mostly)

[k corbin]

Many hardware stores such as Ace, Do-it-Best, True Value sell stainless steel metric sheet metal screws. I buy stainless metric screws at such stores quite frequently. They have them in the small parts bins. Just ask the clerk for help. Going to the big box stores is generally a waste of time when looking for metric fasteners.


As to filling holes don't bother using wood and resin there is a better way to do it. Just buy epoxy putty sticks. The kind that are round with one component part inside of the other. You cut off the amount you want and then knead the two components together. Best screw hole filling material around. It sets fairly quickly and is just the right hardness after curing for holding screw threads. I have been using it for many years and I have gone through a lot of it while repairing my Campster trailer for patching fiberglass and rebuilding areas of the plywood floor where the old bolts had rotted wood around them from water leaks. Wonderful stuff, it is a standard item in my repair kit for the trailer, boat, workshop and house.

[Alex Adams]

Thank you all for all of your suggestions and answers. I never thought about the epoxy putty in this application. I did go to Home Depot which used to have (6 months ago) a good selection of stainless steel metric hardware. Unfortunately they have cut what they carry back drastically. I then went to my local Ace hardware and guess what, they have cut back drastically as well. Hence all my questions.

[k corbin]

Originally Posted by Alex Adams

Thank you all for all of your suggestions and answers. I never thought about the epoxy putty in this application. I did go to Home Depot which used to have (6 months ago) a good selection of stainless steel metric hardware. Unfortunately they have cut what they carry back drastically. I then went to my local Ace hardware and guess what, they have cut back drastically as well. Hence all my questions.

Just pack the holes firmly with epoxy putty, let cure for at least one full day so it gets really hard, then drill new starter holes, you can use the #8 screws as they will have material to grip into.