I had intended to winterize my Casita myself last fall by blowing out all of the water in the lines. Unfortunately, we had a warranty problem with our electrical panel which took a long time got get resolved, and the Casita was at an RV shop when the first serious cold weather was on the way. I had to pay them to winterize the trailer, and they put RV antifreeze in the lines..
This morning I went out to flush out the lines. The first thing I did was check the bypass valve to set it in the bypass position (it had been left in that position by the RV shop). I hooked the trailer to City water and started flushing the lines. I heard water coming out somewhere and when I looked it was coming out of the hot water heater (I had the anode out) Then, I tried the valve in the opposite position (pointing down) and water still flowed into (and out of) the hot water tank.
Next, I tried putting some water into my fresh water tank, turned on the pump, and water flowed into the hot water heater with the valve in both positions.
Might someone help me figure out what's going on with my plumbing and how I might analyze and fix the problem?
If anyone ever turned that valve from open to closed, or vice versa, while the piping was under pressure, the seals in the valve seat are ruined. That valve should never be rotated while the system is pressurized, not even once! A replacement is about $15 bucks or so. And be sure to install it oriented so that the valve handle is facing the water heater and not facing out toward the inside if the trailer. It must be oriented that way for hot water flow direction purposes. If you install it with the valve handle facing the interior you will not have a bypass when closed. Also, as an aside, when the valve handle is level horizontally the valve is closed. When the handle points down, the valve is open. It must be open to have hot water flow. It must be closed when winterizing to prevent filling the water heater reservoir with anti-freeze. Personally, I never use anti freeze. I just open all my faucets and blow my lines out with air. If you do blow them out, don't forget to step on the toilet flush pedal, open any outside faucets if you have any, and break the connection at the 12 volt water pump so that air can blow any water out of the pump. (Grab a few paper towels when you do that one.)
Having spent a career in the chemical industry, 3 way valves were notorious for leaking. And I am talking ones that cost thousands of dollars, not $15. I'd contact Casita for replacements. Theirs should fit right in.
Casita doesn't make them. Casita makes trailers, with components they source all over. This one is a direct "drop-in" replacement for the one that's no good.
The Camco valve shown in the picture in the Amazon link you sent has two male connections and one female connection. The valve in my Casita has three male connections. Is there a similar Camco valve with three male connections?
The Camco valve shown in the picture in the Amazon link you sent has two male connections and one female connection. The valve in my Casita has three male connections. Is there a similar Camco valve with three male connections?
Just get a brass nipple and screw it into the female. Here's an example, you need to make sure it's the correct size.
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Steve and Tali - Dogs: Rocky and our beloved Reacher, Storm, Maggie and Lucy (waiting at the Rainbow Bridge) 2008 Outlaw Oliver Legacy Elite & 2014 Outlaw Oliver Legacy Elite II 2022 Silverado High Country 3500HD Diesel 4x4
Of course Casita does not make the part, but given the trailer is just one year old, you probably can get a replacement directly from them that is a perfect match. As a minimum, they will know where to get one.
I had intended to winterize my Casita myself last fall by blowing out all of the water in the lines. Unfortunately, we had a warranty problem with our electrical panel which took a long time got get resolved, and the Casita was at an RV shop when the first serious cold weather was on the way. I had to pay them to winterize the trailer, and they put RV antifreeze in the lines..
This morning I went out to flush out the lines. The first thing I did was check the bypass valve to set it in the bypass position (it had been left in that position by the RV shop). I hooked the trailer to City water and started flushing the lines. I heard water coming out somewhere and when I looked it was coming out of the hot water heater (I had the anode out) Then, I tried the valve in the opposite position (pointing down) and water still flowed into (and out of) the hot water tank.
Next, I tried putting some water into my fresh water tank, turned on the pump, and water flowed into the hot water heater with the valve in both positions.
Might someone help me figure out what's going on with my plumbing and how I might analyze and fix the problem?
Have you tried to put the anode rod in and put the valve in the bypass position. We've had problems if the anode rod is out. Don't ask me why as it makes no sense but that is what we've found out. We always use anti-freeze because if a little low spot has water in it you'll have a broken line if it freezes. Don't ask how we know. But it isn't pretty. We drain our tanks, remove line into pump (make sure you have a towel under the connection when removing the line), attach an extra piece of tubing with a connector on it to the pump, put hose in anti-freeze and turn on pump. Works best with 2 people so one can turn pump on and off along with the faucets and the other one can make sure anti-freeze doesn't run out or the tube can't fall out. To get rid of anti-freeze make sure bypass is still in bypass mode, hook to city water and open faucets. Also make sure the city water is not to high of pressure. That could damage pipes or bypass possibly. We always leave a faucet open when turning on city water or put a water pressure reducer on the hose. Our pump has slip on connections so it is easy to take off the line.
That is the dumbest thing I have ever heard of it is not going to ruin the seals in the valve I have turned the valves with pressure in the lines for years and have never had a valve go bad sounds like to me you are turning the wrong valve.
Yesterday I DE winterized my trailer and set it up for camping this summer.
The question in my mind is did the people who winterized your Casita us a pliers to turn the valve and shear the stop pin?
My valve turns one quarter of a turn. If yours turns more than a one quarter of a turn then the stop pin has been sheared. In that case replacement is required or turn it a one quarter of a turn and see it it holds. You should be able to purchase a new one at a local hardware store or camping trailer store for about $15.00. Replacing it in will take some dexterity and some fiddling.
The Camco valve shown in the picture in the Amazon link you sent has two male connections and one female connection. The valve in my Casita has three male connections. Is there a similar Camco valve with three male connections?
Yes, NPT (national pipe thread) is the same as MPT (male pipe thread) in this case.
JR Products 62255 3-Way Brass Diverter Valve - 1/2" MPT x 1/2" MPT x 1/2" MPT
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