Awning on Uhaul CT - Fiberglass RV
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Old 08-03-2011, 09:09 AM   #1
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Trailer: U-Haul 13 ft ('Lil Eggo')
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Awning on Uhaul CT

Hi All - just wondered if I could get some advice...
I have been seriously considering installing an awning on my Uhaul...the kind with a rail. I would like to install on the raised portion of the roof line as it is almost the full length of the camper and straight and flat. The thing I'm wondering is: how do I fasten it - I want to bolt the rail on, but am wondering about the double shell - is the shell still double where it raises up on the "second level"? If I go through the outer shell, how do I bolt it on with nuts - can't get behind because of the inner shell. Any info on this would be much appreciated. We are using a separate canopy type thing now, but would really like to have one installed on the camper.
(Am I just begging for trouble?)
Thanks for any help!
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Old 08-03-2011, 08:38 PM   #2
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By putting the rail up on the top area, you will expose the bolds on the inside, since that area is not double hull. No real problem, because you can then cover them up with some sort of headliner inside. If you install it lower, closer to the door, you'll be in the 'double wall' area. Double wall construction means that you simply drill through the outside shell, install butyl tape under the rail, then pop rivet the rail into place. The nice thing is that you don't wind up with any visible bolts inside the trailer. I did mine myself, and it went fine. The first hole was the most difficult to drill, just for the fact that I was drilling a hole in a perfectly good shell! I love my awning
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Old 08-03-2011, 09:00 PM   #3
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Name: James
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The previous owner installed a rail on my CT, there are no bolts showing on the inside. The CT is double hulled along the top, there is a curved section and the bolts only show inside the cabinet. It looks like it was attached with silicone on the back then screwed into place. Here are some pics showing the rail. As you can see in my pics, the rail is about 4-6 inches above the top of the door, I don't see a reason it would need to be higher.









Hope this helps your decision.
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Old 08-03-2011, 09:01 PM   #4
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Sharon, here's a non-drilled idea. Now, I'm only providing the link and have no personal experience with this stuff... please remember that: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ets-42083.html

and another that talks about suction cups... this is a direct link to: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tml#post136061

Good luck in whatever way you go
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Old 08-04-2011, 08:14 AM   #5
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Trailer: U-Haul 13 ft ('Lil Eggo')
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Hey guys - thank you all SOOO much for the info - they were all very helpful and answered my questions fully - even one's I didn't know I had. Now - like you said Pam, I just have to decide if I want it up higher or down lower - and get the guts to drill that first hole... Donna - thank you so much for all your work on this website - if it hadn't been for the help I've received from the people here, I might have sold the camper a long time ago out of frustration... The link you gave on the Bus Depot awning is VERY interesting - I may just have to get one of those to use anyway, or until I get brave enough to drill!
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Old 08-04-2011, 11:49 AM   #6
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Buy a screenhouse (We use a FirstUp.) and prop it against the trailer with the bug screens pulled back on the camper side. Then the door opens into it, and you have extra living space, few bugs in the trailer, and fewer bug bites on you. We do that with our Uhaul. Momma Glamper is not happy if we don't set up the screenhouse.

CindyL
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Old 08-05-2011, 04:19 PM   #7
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I just installed an awning on my Egg Camper, double walled. You drill a larger hole on the inside and use 2 nuts with2 different sized washers. Search here for "New yolk for my Egg"
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Old 08-05-2011, 04:21 PM   #8
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here is a link to my recent install
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...asy-46985.html
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Old 08-05-2011, 10:39 PM   #9
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Yep that was my original thread asking about attaching without rivets, using VHB tape. I just didn't think that I could trust it without some additional mechanical 'holding power' so I went with the old school method and used rivets.
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