Advice needed: propane fittings for Trails West stove (pics included)

[Emily1]

Wishing to safely restore this Trails West stove to working order, I am hoping to learn more about it. What is the name of this particular type of fitting (see close-up)? Does it need a rubber gasket or no (there was none when I unscrewed it)? Any tips on properly connecting this to a hose and propane tank most welcome. Thanks!

[Gerry]

This is called a Brass flared fitting. The proper size Flare nut is put onto the pipe and you use a Flaring tool to make the Flared end.
Both the Flare nut and it's Male end, should be replaced at the same time.
NO Rubber!

[Mr. B]

I disagree that both the male and female components must be replaced at the same time. If the male fitting is undamaged, no need to replace it( actually it is part of the appliance, cannot be replaced separately anyway). The female fitting only should be replaced if it is damaged, as it can be removed and reused with a freshly flared supply tubing. Brass doesn't rust and If not physically damaged ( bent, etc) it should last indefinitely.

[Casita Greg]

Brass doesn't rust, but it does corrode, (as is evidenced in the OP's pics.) If the fittings are not damaged, cracked, don't leak when properly tightened, or are not otherwise unserviceable, then just clean them up and reinstall. And not only is there no rubber gasket used on flared fittings, also don't use any Teflon tape or pipe dope sealant on it either. Flared compression fittings are designed to be leak free just under compression of the fitting to the flared end of the tubing. Using thread tape or sealant on the flared fitting connector threads CAN cause the fitting to crack, so don't use anything on flared fittings ever.
Another helpful tidbit is to ALWAYS use TWO wrenches when tightening or loosening any copper tube fittings to prevent putting a twist in your copper tube. Preferably 6 point "tubing wrenches" as opposed to just plane ordinary open-end wrenches that only have two "flats" on them and can easily strip the "flats" off the soft copper fittings. You want wrenches like these:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-5...Set/1000600333

[Emily1]

Thanks everyone for the useful replies. I proceeded and bought a 12ft plastic hose with female flare to hook up the stove to propane and test it. Left burner ignited properly. When trying to ignite right burner, somewhat of an explosion occurred inside the stove. Taking it apart, there was soot on the bottom of the aluminum guard plate as a result of the explosion. This makes me wonder if there was some organic material blocking a conduit since the propane itself would not produce soot(?). Additionally, I tested connections with soapy water and found gas leaking from under the flare nut. I did not want to tighten it more, however, because I might decide on a foot or so of brass tubing inside the stove which would then be connected to the plastic hose and tank. Or buy a brand new stove just to be on the safe side. Any further comments based on this report most welcome.

[Raspy]

Originally Posted by Emily1

Thanks everyone for the useful replies. I proceeded and bought a 12ft plastic hose with female flare to hook up the stove to propane and test it. Left burner ignited properly. When trying to ignite right burner, somewhat of an explosion occurred inside the stove. Taking it apart, there was soot on the bottom of the aluminum guard plate as a result of the explosion. This makes me wonder if there was some organic material blocking a conduit since the propane itself would not produce soot(?). Additionally, I tested connections with soapy water and found gas leaking from under the flare nut. I did not want to tighten it more, however, because I might decide on a foot or so of brass tubing inside the stove which would then be connected to the plastic hose and tank. Or buy a brand new stove just to be on the safe side. Any further comments based on this report most welcome.

It's not brass tubing. It is copper tubing. Big difference.

What does leaking "under the flare nut" mean? At a different fitting, or the flare itself? If the flare is cracked, or the nut is cracked, it will leak, if not, it can be tightened a bit, or as mentioned earlier, a small smear of pipe dope on the male surface of the flare fitting will help it seal. A similar bit of teflon paste on the back side of the tube flare will lubricate the flare nut against the copper flare and give more clamping force per amount of torque on the nut. None is needed on the threads. This method is useful with delicate fittings.

An "explosion" can happen if the venturi area of the tube feeding the burner is clogged. Clogging is commonly found to be spider webs, dust, etc. Be sure both of the venturi tubes are clean clear to the burner, and the burner orifices are clear.

Of course, do not use plastic or rubber hose inside the stove for anything more than a quick test. It gets hot in there and you will have a much larger fire than you are ready for.

[kip22]

Oh man plastic pipe and an explosion.....


That is a 3/8 flare fitting. Pretty sure it will connect to a tee or Y 3/8 fitting close by for propane supply. Just measure your length and order a 3/8 to 3/8 flexible propane hose off the Amazon. I always pay a little extra for the high pressure hoses but it is on the low pressure side so your call.


Further to that you DO need to use propane gas approved pipe dope but just a little on the threads. NONE on the rounded flares of either side of the fittings. Brass to brass or brass to copper seal works. Make sure its ******* tight. Just tight is not good enough. People who work with flared fittings get a feel for how tight is the right amount before wrecking the fitting. You need to install and then leak test. I'd suggest buying some high foaming solution or even a gas sniffer. I figure all the money I save doing work myself easily covers new tools plus a gas leak is a **** way to die.


Even if the stove ends up being no good and likely not worth repairing u need the new supply hose anyway.


I replaced a similar cooktop in my boler with the one linked below about a year ago. It was cheap and works fine but I kind of wish I'd spent a bit more on a nicer looking one.


People should not be doing gas work or giving advice on gas if they are guessing. If you are not 100% confident in what you are doing you should take it to a certified person.











https://www.amazon.ca/Flame-King-YSN...s%2C166&sr=8-1

[Emily1]

I managed to salvage the old stove, flare the copper piping and connect it to the propane rubber hose. All the comments here were very instructive -- thanks!


Here are some images of the completed stove. The fiberglass backsplash is also from the original kitchen, only now its modified and flipped 180 degrees and lowered to open up the space.