Faint smell of propane - question on hose removal

[Raspy]

Originally Posted by Wayne Collins

First, it takes just a very small amount of LP escaping to smell. But won't be enough ignite.

Yes, but the OP had a real leak that was blowing bubbles. That hose was on its way to complete failure, or a large leak.

Also, I've had the O rings in the valve crack, where they seal to the POL fitting. This meant they would not seal no matter how tight the hand fittings were screwed in.

[computerspook]

Originally Posted by lisantica

My Scamp has 2 propane tanks. I can smell some propane, it's not strong, but it is enough that I can smell it. I only smell it at the tank area, not inside.

Soapy water is your friend. Mix some up and then use a brush to brush it on all of the connections. Don't forget the tank valve. Also check the connections to the tanks. Check the hoses where they connect to the connectors. Actually any time I do anything that could effect the propane lines I do this.

I find that there are a lot of tanks that have problems. A lot of them actually are with the connections to the hose for the system. Now normally I do the tank swap thing, and find that about 10% I have to return as defective.

A really good test is to turn the propane on and all your devices off. Then use the stove long enough to get a really good flame on one burner and turn that off. Then turn the tank off and come back the next day. The stove should immediately light, and go for a while and then peter out. That means the system is maintaining pressure. If it will not light, then the system is leaking somewhere.

[lisantica]

Originally Posted by computerspook

A really good test is to turn the propane on and all your devices off. Then use the stove long enough to get a really good flame on one burner and turn that off. Then turn the tank off and come back the next day. The stove should immediately light, and go for a while and then peter out. That means the system is maintaining pressure. If it will not light, then the system is leaking somewhere.

I did find the leak with the soapy water test.
I like your other test.
I will try that in the coming days. Thank you.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by computerspook

.
A really good test is to turn the propane on and all your devices off. Then use the stove long enough to get a really good flame on one burner and turn that off. Then turn the tank off and come back the next day. The stove should immediately light, and go for a while and then peter out. That means the system is maintaining pressure. If it will not light, then the system is leaking somewhere.

Maybe a good test, but not a really good one.

It is in effect very similar to the timed pressure drop test using a manometer. The difference is that the manometer measures the pressure drop (if any) so even the slightest leak will show up. With the stove test you are just hoping that, if there is a leak, it is enough of a leak to drain the lines in the time you have waited to a sufficient amount as to prevent the stove from lighting.

That being said, if you fill the lines with gas, run the stove, turn off the stove, turn off the tank valve, then in a few hours or days you try to light the stove with the tank valve still off, and it fails to light, then that is a strong sign that there is a leak and it should be found or ruled out by a professional test.

[computerspook]

Originally Posted by gordon2

Maybe a good test, but not a really good one.

With the stove test you are just hoping that, if there is a leak, it is enough of a leak to drain the lines in the time you have waited to a sufficient amount as to prevent the stove from lighting.

That being said, if you fill the lines with gas, run the stove, turn off the stove, turn off the tank valve, then in a few hours or days you try to light the stove with the tank valve still off, and it fails to light, then that is a strong sign that there is a leak and it should be found or ruled out by a professional test.

I am sorry that I did not go into more detail on this one. The test I use is not just if the stove will light or not. I have actually got a base line test. And I compare it to the base line. I don't just see if the stove will light, I see if it will stay lit about the same amount of time. In my case I know that my stove will burn on full for just over 90 seconds with the lines full and the tank off. It will then take about 30 seconds to go off. If I am very far from this then I start looking for a problem.

I actually use this step as a part of my trip prep. A couple days before I intend to leave I will run this test. Then if it fails I start checking things. I also do this after every tank change if I change them out when I get home.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by computerspook

I am sorry that I did not go into more detail on this one. The test I use is not just if the stove will light or not. I have actually got a base line test. And I compare it to the base line. I don't just see if the stove will light, I see if it will stay lit about the same amount of time. In my case I know that my stove will burn on full for just over 90 seconds with the lines full and the tank off. It will then take about 30 seconds to go off. If I am very far from this then I start looking for a problem.

I actually use this step as a part of my trip prep. A couple days before I intend to leave I will run this test. Then if it fails I start checking things. I also do this after every tank change if I change them out when I get home.

[Sammy Joe]

Having owned a propane company I can tell you first hand that “ I’LL DO IT SOON”. is NOT the right answer. Not being a know it all but a PROPANE LEAK no matter how small is not acceptable to wait. Your trailer is at the age that it needs to gets replaced and the complete set up all the way to the copper line going into the camper. Yes it is not cheap but you don’t want to go cheep when it comes to propane ,you can get it under a $ 100. Online at AMAZON. The sun is brutally hard on the rubber on the hoses ,regulator and a cover ( white one) over it all should be used as it is for your safety. The bubble test should be done EVERY TIME you replace a tank. Your tanks also have a date code on them and after 12 yrs they need to be tested BUT that’s when you do the tank swap at the store. Just ask the attendant if you can check the tank date code and get one as young as possible and that way you can just refill them. With all that said good luck on the project.

[lisantica]

Originally Posted by Sammy Joe

Having owned a propane company I can tell you first hand that “ I’LL DO IT SOON”. is NOT the right answer.

I understand and I just purchased the new hose that was leaking/loose after reading your post.
The two hoses that go from the regulator to the tanks were replaced right before buying according to the seller and I believe it as the brass fittings look new and the hoses show no fading or even dirt on them.
Next I will sort out the dates on the tanks and get new ones. I understand that Costco sells tanks, I may look into that as I have an RV park near me that fills tanks.
Proof:

[WizWid]

Originally Posted by lisantica

]
Next I will sort out the dates on the tanks and get new ones. I understand that Costco sells tanks, I may look into that as I have an RV park near me that fills tanks.
Proof:

Dont waste money on new tanks.
Just refill them as normal, until they get too old.
Then, and only then, exchange them for younger ones.
Then immediately slice off the plastic wrap they use on those exchange ones as they only serve to hasten rust.

Jim